Rate Post Log in | Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Rate this post by selecting a number. 1 is the worst and 5 is the best.

    (Worst)    1    2    3    4    5     (Best)

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bomobob
Tinkerer
Username: Bomobob

Post Number: 12
Registered: 10-2007

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0

Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 - 08:00 am:   

Yes, barely visible in the photo are the two tiny posts, and the dial does indeed have two mating notches to clip it onto the roller, so I'm pretty sure the cap could be put back on now, and all the other stuff stacked onto it from the outside. I gave it a dry run, and it all makes sense.
I did figure out the tension required, thanks. All it needs is enough to make it spring back to "S" when the back is opened. Quite ingenious.

I took a closer look at the RF mirror mechanism, and sure enough, the post protruding from the back of the lens does indeed move in and out, thus moving the mirror. I'd never used the camera since I bought it, but looking closely at it from the top, there was a very pronounced inward curve of the lens mounting plate, thus pushing the mirror too much and resulting in the RF basically being uncalibrated. I'd not noticed this before. Using brute force and some unnecessarily large pliers, I straightened the plate, and the RF overlay is now very close to the real focal distance.

I drilled out most of the screw from the advance lever shaft, and today I will attempt to remove the leftover material with a tap. If that works, this baby will be almost as good as new.

All your help has been invaluable...thanks.

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration