Rate Post Log in | Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Rate this post by selecting a number. 1 is the worst and 5 is the best.

    (Worst)    1    2    3    4    5     (Best)

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn

Post Number: 292
Registered: 07-2006

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0

Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 06:03 pm:   

Christ, never let a hammer near a woodscrew, even when using soft woods! In hardwoods especially, you must drill a pilot hole first. The diameter of the pilot hole is the core diameter of the screw you are inserting. Rub the screwthreads on a wax candle before inserting.

Personally I attack this problem from another direction. In the model aircraft world you can get some very neat captive nuts - these push in from the rear of the wooden bulkhead and are retain buy sharp projections. This a superior, smaller scale version of the hammer nut used in general woodworking.

I mount the modified weld nut on a piece of 3/8" ply,using the captive nuts and countersunk headed machine screws. You can use a thin spacer sheet or let the nuts into the face of the plywood. The plywood piece is cut to fit over a large area of camera base, and can be rectangular or circular. Four holes are then drilled in this piece of ply and matching holes in the base of camera. I then insert another set of captive nuts from inside camera or reverse of base board and then use pan headed machine screws to attach the wooden 'plate' to the camera. The wooden plate can be painted or covered in leather etc.

This modification means that the plate is easily removed, with only four small holes being the noticeable alteration to the original camera.

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration