| Author | Message | ||
     Jackson Rating: N/A |
Thanks again Winfried, I didn't realize I would have to remove the entire front. Now that I know, I can try to schedule it for a time when I won't be disturbed for an hour or so. Actually, I had been considering removing the front assembly anyway. I freed the shutter the other day with lighter fluid, but I'm concerned that it should be soaked to effect a reliable repair. I swabbed off quite a bit of yellow/brown residue from the front of both the shutter blades and the aperture diaphragm. The back sides are inaccessible without removing everything. No sense doing it halfway, right? On the beamsplitter, I also have a Lynx 5000e I might consider sacrificing for the cause. It's rangefinder image isn't quite as bright as the Electros, but I suspect there's a better chance the mirror is the correct size. I extracted a beamsplitter from a defunct Richo 500G (the same one that started the anti-meter thread), but I think it's probably too small. I'll know for sure soon enough. One more thing I want to mention, just in case it's any help. We were talking earlier about cleaners for the carbon tracks in lens barrels. Even the tuner-type cleaners that leave a lubricating film behind may not provide the protection that's really needed for best longevity. I've frequently heard mechanical squeaking from the wiper as it moves along a potentiometer track after cleaning with these. The solution is a thin white grease marketed under the name Lubriplate. It's available from General Motors in relatively large cans, or from electronics suppliers like MCM Electronics in a squeeze tube. Companies like MCM also sell a lubricant known as Phonolube, a thick brown grease that's probably just the thing for focusing threads and such. It's been a while since I purchased these types of supplies; hopefully they're still available in this form. Thanks to everyone for the great ideas! |