| Author | Message | ||
     Scott Rating: N/A |
Thanks for the formula, but I'm afraid that whatever I'm able to work out on paper probably isn't going to help me much. I'm thinking it's gonna have to be more of a 'trial and (a lot of) error' sort of project, when I finally decide to do it. I'm kind of curious to see how difficult this will be (is that what makes me a 'tinkerer'???). Anybody know what kind of equipment they used in Dresden when they were calibrating/shimming these cameras?? Is this only a problem on folding cameras? I guess that the struts and hinges might give each individual camera unit somewhat different tolerances. Here's what I'm going to try, and I'll let y'all know how my primitive method works: Seems to me that I oughta be able to pile on (or take away) shims while checking the focus, or rather checking the distance setting (on the camera's meter scale) at which I get a focused image. When I get a focused image, if the distance on the meter scale on the camera is more than the actual distance, then that means that the lens needs to be 'shimmed' further away from the film plane. If the distance on the scale is less than the actual distnace, then I need to remove shims. Does that make sense? Or have I got it backwards? What I'm aiming at is a test pattern on the TV screen. |