| Author | Message | ||
     John Rating: N/A |
Thanks for all the info guys, I finally had no option but to strip it down and check. I found that this camera has been repaired before - the pad is in great shape and made from what I can only describe a a very firm silicon type rubber, plus the capacitor has been changed to a tantalum bead, but it is not marked with a value. I also found that, althought the tracks are very clean, the sliding finger furthest from the lens was not making full contact with the tracks, which may explain the flickering lights. After taking this area apart, cleaning and carefully reprofiling the fingers I have put it all back together for testing. I now have very steady over/under lights in the correct sequence and the yellow goes out before the shutter fires. Long exposures stay open after I release the shutter button and seem to progress in doubling steps for each reduction in aperture. so looking good. I have one final question - when should the "click" happen in the winding cycle? Before I worked on it this used to happen almost as soon as the wind lever was moved - now, it happens on the return stroke of the lever, is that right? Everything works as it should and the shutter button "just" latches down on firing (as recommended on several websites), but have I screwed up the sequence somehow? Any help most gratefully received. |