| Author | Message | ||
     Glenn Middleton Rating: N/A |
The only experience I have of the Vitessa-T is using my late father's example, before he traded up to a M2. I have modified two electric soldering tools to deal with glued name/data plates etc.One is just a normal 100watt thermostatic soldering iron to which I attach copper bits that are shaped to cover the plate or disc in question.ie in this case it would be a cylinder of solid copper,the same diameter as the disc.However that still leave you with the problem of lifting the disc.The second device is more useful.It is basically like a pair of pliers with electrically heated copper jaws.It was originally used to melt the solder in Yorkshire fittings for copper pipes.(A ferule containing rings of solder is used to join two pieces of copper pipe.The heated copper jaws are place around the ferule and the solder melts).The heated jaws come in various sizes for the different diameter copper pipes.These jaws can be easily modified to accommodate any diameter. I would glue a lifting tab onto the disc with high temperature epoxy( safe to 200C),then I would place the jaws around the cap and apply heat.The disc adhesive should fail before the epoxy,allowing you to pull off the disc.Soaking in methylene chloride will weaken the epoxy and allow it's removal. The disc may not be glued in however, but may be held in place by a slight chamfer on the edge of the counter bore.Rolex watch bezel inserts are held in this way and it is very secure.As in the case of Gossen,I suspect that at official repairs the disc would have be sacrificed and a new one pressed/glued in place. I would remove by drilling a small hole and running in a tap to force out the disc.Turning up a new disc out of stainless,alloy or even plastic is a simple job.I would rather have an unmarked none original plunger than one with scratch/gouge marks. |