| Author | Message | ||
     Paolo Amedeo Rating: N/A |
Thanks Michael, The behavior is the same both in manual and auto: that has been the very first thing I have tried in the field... As for the temperature, the coolest spots were anyhow above 41F (5°C) and the problem persisted once the camera has been stabilized at room temperature at home (~64F / 18°C)... The battery was good yesterday morning (~6.2V), but I didn't check when I was back... However, no sign of low battery and the very same battery was used to re-test the shutters of another RTS-II (this one has been always bad on times faster than 1/250) and a couple of FR / FR-I, without any problem... It could be that some dirt had accumulated on the circuit and, with condensed humidity it causes the problem. However, either there is some component that drains quite some energy or I doubt this would be the cause... Tonight, when I'm back from work I'll check the battery, test the speeds again and, if I have some time, I'll take out the top cover. In the past I have used this very camera in much more demanding conditions (~20 F / -12°C) for hours without any problem... As I have said in my previous posting, the temperature correlation is just an impression. ...Too few experimental points to draw a conclusion... The idea of a faulty capacitor derives from the fact that, for the little I know about capacitors, those are the elements that are used for “counting” the cycles of a quartz: if that capacitor is leaking, the effect is much more obvious on longer exposure times... Thanks! Paolo PS Unrelated with my topic, but more related to your camera: now that you have mentioned the 137, I once had one that would burn the first shot when just switched on or after several minutes after the last shot... It was quite weird... Anyhow, 137, 167 have also the internal motor for winding the film, a good battery drainer, especially in cold weather!!! |