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Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2011

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0

Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2011 - 12:58 am:   

You should consider removing the mirror box assembly as the foam has deteriorated behind it. I have not seen anyone mention this as that junk will just become a mess.But, I would remove the galvanometer, do not leave it there to be damaged. Put it under a wine glass away from the general work area. A little twelve watt soldering iron is all you need. Take notes & draw diagrams as to where the wires go. There are 3 wires going to the CDS cell, one black wire to the meter, the wires on the deck lid are for the flash functions. Like Getz said watch the string for the speed indicator & note its direction. The galvanometer & rack if you notice have a hole in the rack & the post or stud this is for you reassembly reference marks. Set the ASA dial to like 25 or 100, think it is 25 & speed @ 1000 when you pull of the top. Notice that the rack will be all the way to the left & the reference marks line up. On the TL model the rack does not go all the way to the left as when it is that position it is energy cell check mode.
Do not place the meter movement on a steel desk top or container as the magnetism could be weakened or other wise destroy the movement. Wood bench is the king for precision work, trust me on this one. Anyway pull out the box assy & clean off the old foam from it & the body . Install fresh foam on body before reassembly, & a good time to do the mirror foam too.
Two screws hold in the retard assembly & they are accessible from the under side. Check the screw lengths as if you put the wrong ones back in the retard mech.. wont work & could distort it. Rinse in a naphtha solution, blow off excess & heat lightly with a hair drier to remove any moisture & lube pivots with a light oil, IE, Nye's, your choice. Now while the mirror box is out lubricate the shutter curtain rollers & other rotating parts, don't drown them just a little will do. If a little is good less is better! This my instructor in school would say. The pivot points on the retard mechanism the same thing a jewelers oiler & just a spot where the pivot meets with the hole. Capillary attraction will draw the oil into the surface you are oiling. If you get too much oil there is a product called RODICO for bolting up oil, dirt specs & finger prints available through Borel's or Twin City or watchmakers supply sources. Check the area where the rotating striker hits the retard mec., & polish if needed. Reinstall & a spot of light grease on the strike area of the retard mech., will work nice. Lightly grease the mirror box levers where the old grease is spotted & dry. Once you get the mirror box assy. back in check the function. Oh, there is one thing that I have not seen posted in anything here in this form & that is the advance pawls system in this camera. With the camera upside down, remove the cam shaped plate on the take up. You will notice there are three springs & three pawls or rollers, pull them out & clean them. they need to be assembled dry as any lube or dirt will cause slippage & the advance system gets all out of synch. OK! Now the meter needs to have the pointer & stops cleaned or they will stick. An agent that does not leave a residue is suggested, & check the position of the bumper cage.When you get it all back together & the string for the speed selector running in synch. 1000 to B to get the speed to index properly, the post the pulley is on is an eccentric, so rotate to align. The gear between the rack & shutter speed selector is also on an eccentric post for proper gear depth adjustment. A duck feather works to clean off the focusing screen of fine dust or particles. Good time to put in a voltage drop or limiting device ? diode. I am not sure as any mention of speed check, but you can use an older CRT TV screen to check a focal plane shutter. The scan creates a strobe so you can see the slit on the upper speeds. I use that or a florescent lamp,this is a little more tricky, to see if the curtains are running good or they need a little adjusting.

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