Rate Post Log in | Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Rate this post by selecting a number. 1 is the worst and 5 is the best.

    (Worst)    1    2    3    4    5     (Best)

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Glenn Middleton

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0

Posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 07:36 pm:   

Here in the UK there is an enamel paint made by 'Humbrol' for people who model figures of early soldiers. It is a silver paint, but you buff it up after it has dried to a really shiny finish. Perhaps you can find something similar.

I never had much luck with auto chrome paints, however I have not looked at developments over the last 5/6 years. So things may have improved a lot.

Would not advise using any abrasive on the chrome. The scratches do not polish out, no matter what you do. I cut the filler back with a model knife, before it is fully set and a spot of acetone can also be wiped over the filler to smooth the surface.


The epoxy I have is a system for building wooden boats manufactured by West. Basically it is a two part liquid adhesive, to which you add an inert powder to make the filler. However I found that I could add the powder to any slow setting epoxy adhesive and get a good filler. Do not use the rapid setting varieties, they do not set hard and if the filler goes off too quick you have a job cutting it back. Of course where you can 'sand' down, this does not matter.

There is one technique that may work, I use it to fill in missing areas of vulcanite on Leica cameras. You mix a small amount of enamel paint into the slow setting epoxy. Now obviously I use black enamels on the Leicas, but you could use one of the chrome enamels that modellers use. These paints are heavily pigmented, so the filled area will polish up - even when mixed with epoxy.

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration