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Bernhard_prins
Tinkerer Username: Bernhard_prins
Post Number: 17 Registered: 01-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 09:10 am: |
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Hello, I am trying to open the front of the lens of my Samoca 35 LE with 1:3,5 50 mm. Ezumar for the shutterblades are struck, but I can't release the thin brass two-notched ring i.o. to reach the escapement behind the alu plate, since its screw diameter is apparently narrower than the frontcap diameter....does anybody know how to unscrew this lens? (See red arrow on photo)Thanks, Bernhard Prins |
Scott
Tinkerer Username: Scott
Post Number: 43 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, July 27, 2009 - 06:21 am: |
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I think that brass piece is the ring-nut that holds down the shutter-speed cam plate. I use an adjustable lens spanner, but I think a watchmaker's watch-opener might work there, too. As you may already know, that cam plate does not necessarily need to be removed in order to get the shutter blades un-stuck. Nine times out of ten, the reason that the blades are not opening and closing properly is because there is too much friction ON THE BLADES THEMSELVES-- not because of a problem in the escapement or springs inside the shutter mechanism. Looks like the lens glass is still in the camera. What I do, is to first remove all of the lens elements front and back, then clean the blades well. That usually does it, and I usually don't have to open the shutter mechanism at all |
Scott
Tinkerer Username: Scott
Post Number: 44 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, July 27, 2009 - 05:57 pm: |
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If your question is simply how to unscrew the front lens element, there should be two notches in the housing. If not, I'd put on a rubber glove and grip it that way. Unscrewing the lens is unrelated to tht thin, flat brass ring-nut. The lens housing is not connected or threaded to that brass ring-nut. |
Bernhard_prins
Tinkerer Username: Bernhard_prins
Post Number: 18 Registered: 01-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 - 11:30 pm: |
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Hello Scott, thanks for your advice, do you mean that the screwed tube containing the front lens glass above the brass ring can be seperated from the part that holds down the shutter-speed cam plate? Those two parts are just screwed in? Indeed I have to release the cam plate to check the speed gearment and to weld the wire on the flash connector again... |
Scott
Tinkerer Username: Scott
Post Number: 45 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 10:05 am: |
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>>>do you mean that the screwed tube containing the front lens glass above the brass ring can be seperated from the part that holds down the shutter-speed cam plate? Those two parts are just screwed in? Yes. You don't have to touch that brass ring or the cam plate in order to remove the lens element housing. True, you would have to remove the cam plate in order to see the escapement gears or to re-solder the flash sync connecton. Getting those cam plates back on correctly can take some practice. Often, there are also tiny parts that can just fall out when that cam plate is off. So lift it off carefully, and make a note of where everything goes and in which position. |
Bernhard_prins
Tinkerer Username: Bernhard_prins
Post Number: 19 Registered: 01-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 12:49 pm: |
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Scott, the lens housing came off, although not very easily. Thanks. You are very right, a small brass 2 mm high pin came loose with a little cross indent in the bottom; it probably came off from the gearment bottom plate, I'll check this later. The speed mechanism is somewhat dry, after minimal lubricating it all works well at all speeds. I degreased the shutterblades with a little bit gaslighter fluid and it is OK. I keep the blades on 'B' open for a night. But how to resolder this very tiny little piece of wire kept almost hidden in the lens house? I don't want to peel off the leatherette which looks excellent but got hardened over the years so it will be damaged...at least it must be made a little longer.......Do you have any suggestions? Thanks, Bernhard |
Bernhard_prins
Tinkerer Username: Bernhard_prins
Post Number: 20 Registered: 01-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2009 - 07:59 am: |
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Hello Scott, so I succeeded in resoldering the tiny part of wire to the flashsync and it's working again, but there's another problem: It's shutter times are probably OK for 1/300 / 100 / 50 / 25.... but 1/10 shuts the same as 1/300 and 1/5 is as fast as 1/50...I told you about the small brass pin that fell out...I thought it came from one the 2 holes in the alu cam plate, but refitting it prevents the shutter dial to go slower than 1/5 sec. Not good. I think this camera wasn't opened for the first time now.... I wish I had a repair drawing, just to see what's (probably) missing. If you are interested I can send some pictures of the opened front and the parts that came off. Bernhard |
Scott
Tinkerer Username: Scott
Post Number: 47 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 07:58 pm: |
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ok, I'll have a look and see if I can help. distichum2(hotmail.com) |
Bernhard_prins
Tinkerer Username: Bernhard_prins
Post Number: 21 Registered: 01-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 11:32 am: |
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Hello Scott, I bought another (cheap) Samoca 35 LE for donor parts, and I compared them, but nothing seems technically missing or different on my camera. I changed speedgears from both camera's, it gave a bit better result, but the donor camera worked even better with 'new' gear... I think I have to drown both gears in lighter fluid to start with and lubricate them again. I'm almost convinced that this is a common problem for the 35 LE. Both camera's tend to have insecure and irregular slow speeds 1/5, 1/10 and 1/25 (maybe no wonder after 50 years). Maybe the problem will solve cocking the shutters on those speeds for many times. I'll keep you informed by mail if I find out what really the problem might be. Greetings, Bernhard |