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Mark Bishop
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 09:56 am: | 
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Hello, Thanks for this forum! I have a Canon Ae-1 program that makes a buzzing sound when the shutter is released. Mirror seems to be slow to raise. I assume a lub would be in order and have already used canned air. Could someone guide me on how to fix. Thanks, Mark |
Jan Dvorak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 10:25 am: |
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Mark,
What you have a typical Canon 'Shutter Squeak'. Do a search either on this forum, or Google with Canon Shutter Squeak as key words and you will find lots of information on how to fix it.
Not simple, but definitely can be done.
Good luck,
Jan |
Harlee
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 10:26 am: |
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I fixed mine in approximately 5 minutes, without removing the top. You will have to remove the bottom plate however. The mirror gears can be lubed through the bottom of the camera. But don't use household Three-in-One oil. I made up my own solution of Slick 50 and lighter fluid. Lighter fluid actually is a good lube. Just be careful not to smoke while you're doing this. You'll also need to make an oil applicator, or go to a local hobby shop and purchase a syringe. I made an applicator from a small squeeze bottle, like a Artificial Tears bottle and a hollow tube such as comes with a WD40 spray can. Drill a small hole through the top and force the hollow tube through it. Don't place too much oil in the bottle but just enough for it to go through the tube as you squeeze the bottle. Remove the bottom plate and look down into the camera just to the left of the mirror housing [as the camera is up-side-down]. Cock the shutter, and with a penlight you should be able to see some white gears deep inside. slide the hollow tube down carefully until it can't go any further and put just a drop of oil on the gears, and trip the shutter; the squeek will disappear almost instantly. This procedure worked just great on my AE1P. Good Luck! |
Mark
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 01:08 pm: |
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Thanks Jan and Harlee! I appreciate your suggestions. I will try Harlee's idea and leave feedback on how successful I am. |
Harlee
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 02:35 pm: |
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Mark,
One other item! Sometimes the base plate screws are pretty difficult to take out if they've been in for some time. Here's what I do when I come up against a stubborn phillips head camera screw. I purchased a small vise-grip pliers at Walmart [$1.88], clamp it on a small jewlers screwdriver, and utilize it as sort of a T-handle to dislodge those stubborn screws. I've also found that a small flat head jewlers screwdriver works better than a jewlers phillips head screwdriver. This generally breaks loose any stubborn camera screws. |
Mark
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 02:41 pm: |
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Harlee, the bottom came off no problem but I am struggling to find the gears. Is the opening to get to the gears just left of the tripod mount? I am assuming the camera would be facing away from me when you say left with camera up-side-down. Further instructions? Thanks, Mark |
rick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 03:21 pm: |
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Mark, I've always done this from the top so I can't help with the specifics... but perhaps this sketch will help a little by letting you know generally where it is you're trying to get to:
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-157.html
: ) = |
Mark
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 04:25 pm: |
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Thanks Rick, I am a little chicken to remove the top, at least today. The camera seems to work fine besides the squeak, so I think I'll wait. Thank you for all your help.
Mark |
Harlee
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 06:46 pm: |
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Mark, in almost everything I've read regarding lubing these gears, doing it through the top is the usual procedure, but on a UK website I found, it was suggested that the gears can be lubed through the bottom - I tried it and it works. OK, let me try and give you directions. The bottom plate is off, the camera us sitting on the prism with the lens facing away from you. The gears can be seen not by the tripod, but up forward toward the front of the camera, along side the mirror housing. They can just bearly be seen - I used a penlight and a magnifiing glass. Make sure the shutter is cocked, this will move some of the junk out of the way so the oiling tube can slide down. Try this Mark, the bottom of the AE1P measures approximately 5 1/2 inches across - measuring from the left side of the base; at approximately 1 1/2 inches from the left side of the base, but up toward the front of the camera [which is now facing away from you], just about where the battery holder is located, slide the oiling tube down, turning is slightly to slip past any obstacles until it won't go down any more. If you can look down there [with a bright light] you should see a slight bit of something white, those are the gears, but you really don't have to see them. It's sort of like playing blind man's bluff. Once the oiling tube can't go any further, squeeze a very little amount of oil onto the gears, but DO NOT overdo it. You'll only need a very little. I accomplished it on my very first try, in roughly 5 minutes, and that included taking off the bottom plate. If you still have a problem, let me know and I'll try and send you a digital shot of the bottom of the camera with the plate off, indicating the proper location. There are problably folks out there who would poo-poo this approach, but believe me it does work. Good Luck! I have since taken my AE1P to Ukraine with me and it performed flawlessly. |
rick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 07:11 pm: |
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This is probably every bit as good as the way i've done it, and the less assembly the better if it gets the job done.... the next time i have one of these to do i'll probably give this approach a try, especially if it's on an AE1 (they're harder than the AE1 Program to get the top off).
rick : ) = |
Mike Wilcox
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 31, 2004 - 09:13 am: |
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I can confirm that Harlee's instructions are perfect! I tried it out last night and using a hypodermic needle (just chat up a tame nurse for one of those!) and sewing machine oil I sucessfully cured the Canon Squeal on my AE1P with 3 drops. Leaving it overnight and trying it just now, just the sound of the mirror flipping!! Whoopie! Now, does that work on an A1?? |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 12, 2005 - 08:38 pm: |
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It is not the gears that actually need the lube.It is the brass flywheel that rotates on the top steel shaft that needs it.In new A1's this wheel sometimes seized in 12/18 months when heavily used,I had 3 cameras replaced by Canon.The squeal is caused by wear in the brass wheel as it rotates on the steel shaft.Fresh lube stops the wheel oscillating as it rotates and hence no squeal.On 15 A1's that I have repaired all the wheel bearing diameters were at least 3thou over size.A brand new, nonlubed damper does not squeal,it will probably seize before enough wear takes place for squealing to start however.
I only mention this because it is the shaft at the top of the camera that needs lube,rubberised shutter blinds do not like being soaked in oil! |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 13, 2005 - 01:22 pm: |
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I add this to my Feb 12 message.If anybody wants proof that only the flywheel shaft needs lube,then do this.Remove the damper unit from a scrap A series Canon.Wash the unit clean in Acetone or other non lubing solvent,leave to dry.Now work the unit by hand-you will the 'Canon Squeal'You will see that the flywheel is retained by a Brass ,cross shaped retainer.Place a 1mm diameter drop of lube between the cross and the flywheel.Again work the unit by hand---Presto!No Squeal!
If you clean the unit again and properly lube the nylon gears,the squeal will still be there.
In most cases of lubing from bottom of camera, it only works because excessive amounts of oil are used!I know because I have had to repair 5,otherwise mint A1's with contaminated shutter blinds.All in last 6 months.
Note also that diluting oil down to a useable viscosity with solvent,may not give the same results longterm as using the correct oil ,in first place.THe solvent evapourates,leaving a more viscous oil than is required.This can gum up shutters,cause slow running etc.Proper grade oil is not expensive. |
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