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Classic Camera Repair » Archives-2006 » Light Leaks and Capping on an FT « Previous Next »

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Ben Hutcherson
Tinkerer
Username: Ben_hutcherson

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I just got my first roll back from my new Canon FT.

On a few of the shots, I noticed a strange spot on the top center(bottom of the negative) that's white but fades to reddish-orange. I though at first that this was a light leak, but looking at the negative shows that it only extends to the edge of the frame and not into the sprocket holes as I suspect a light leak would. Am I correct in my assumption? The seals need to be fixed anyway, but I'd like to know if there's some other problem I should be looking for.

Also, I deliberately took some shots at 1/1000 to check for capping, and it appears as though it caps fairly badly. What's the best way to fix this? I know that I can mess with the curtain tension, but I would rather not do this, especially if there's a better alternative.

Thanks,
Ben
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John Farrell
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Username: John_f

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If you are going to fix the seals, consider stripping the camera to reach the seals around the mirror box. This will also allow you to clean and lube the shutter shafts, which will likely fix the capping.
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John Farrell
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Username: John_f

Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 10:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here is a post I made in 2003, which covers this: "If your FTs are like mine was, you will need to pull the mirror box to replace the foam seal behind it - to do this, remove the prism, and the casting beneath that it rests on. Remove the aperture lever (3 screws - you will see them when you take off the bottom plate). Undo the screws holding the front plate, and ease the front and mirror box forward, taking care that the meter needle clears the top. When you have the front out, unsolder the 3 wires above the flash socket - note where they go. At the back of the mirror box you will see 2 black wires leading to the CDS resistor. The resistor is held in by the strip of foam on top. Remove the foam, lift out the resistor, and the neutral density filter that sits in front of it. The front is now free, and you can flush out and lube the winding and shutter systems. I didn't have to touch the meter on my camera, but as long as you keep notes of where any wires go, and of the position of the rack and gear behind the shutter speed knob, you'll do ok. Replace all the foam you can see on the mirror box, except the piece above the resistor. When you refit the front, have the wind lever attached. I found that the mirror box seats itself nicely if you wind the camera while you push the box home. Refit the resistor after you replace the mirror box, don't forget the filter, which goes in front of the resistor. Then replace the foam which sits above the resistor. Good luck! "

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