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Jackson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 02:17 pm: | 
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I have a couple old rangefinders that need their original vinyl reinstalled with new adhesive. I've been reviewing the archives here for information on this topic, but so far, I haven't found anything that provides a good solution for this work.
Some people suggest the double-sided tape sold by Micro-Tools, but it's only available in fairly large quantities ($25 or so). Others say contact cement, although my experience with the solvent-based variety is that it is virtually impossible to remove later. In addition, I read that the plastizers in vinyl will soften contact cement, turning it into goo, and the Micro-Tools catalog says the same thing about non-plasticizer-resistant tape. So, here are a few questions for anyone who might know:
Is it true that the double-sided tape sold in variety stores like WalMart will not hold vinyl successfully over the long term? Will the plasticizers in vinyl attack both solvent-based and water-based forms of contact cement? Has anyone tried silicone cement for this? Is there any form or brand of contact cement that doesn't become rock-hard after a few months? Is there any other adhesive sold in the U.S. in a bottle or tube that's suitable for this purpose?
Any and all advice will be appreciated. |
Will
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 05:51 pm: |
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Hi Jackson,
I use 3M "Super 77". It is a spray adhesive in a can. I've used it on Yashica, Canon, Kodak, Rollei,etc., etc. I've never had a problem. Excess can be cleaned off with Ronsonol. I don't use it as a contact cement but you can if you want. I just spray it on the leatherette and imediately place it. It gets tacky right away. It is very strong but removable.
Will |
David Ritchie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 06:16 pm: |
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Hi Jackson
I can assure you that solvent based contact cements such as Pliobond will become goo after a time by migration of the plasticizer from the vinyl to the cement. Such cements are based on polychloroprene (neoprene) and a resin. Such cements can be made to work with vinyl but only with the addition of an isocyanate to "cure" the cement. These combinations are widely used in the shoe industry for attaching soles to the uppers. Unfortunately you will not be able to obtain the materials for such systems as you would need to buy large amounts.I cannot speak about water based contact bonds as I have no experience. |
Dan Mitchell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 18, 2004 - 05:37 pm: |
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I've used Pliobond in the past and it will work. After I heard about the potential problems, I started using a white glue called Wellbond. So far I haven't seen any problems with it and it holds well once it is dry. You can use it like contact cement. Put a thin layer on both the camera body and the leatherette, let it dry until it gets tacky, and then press the pieces into place. You may need to hold everything together with cardboard and rubber bands for several hours until the glue sets. |
Jim
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 18, 2004 - 06:46 pm: |
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I agree with Dan. Have used the Wellbond on a number of cameras with good results. Both leather and leatherette.
JIM |
Stuart Willis
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2004 - 08:01 am: |
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I have releathered lots of cameras and have tried all sorts of adhesives - some with success, some less so and some a resounding failure in that with passage of time the adhesive goes "wet" and the leatherette peels off.
Good old (thin - from a fresh new tube) contact adhesive is my best choice but I do NOT apply it to both surfaces and leave to dry before bringing together.
Most cameras have assembly screws beneath the vynyl or leatherette panels and you need to be able to remove those panels in event of a future service job - without destroying the leatherettes.
To this objective I apply the contact adhesive to the camera only. You have to be quite quick and adept. Then immediately place the leatherette and finger-pad it down for three or four minutes. It is a rock solid sound method except on odd occasions where the camera has several cornered contours at its chassis ends (a la Prakicas) ... in which case the ends should be treated afterwards by the traditional "apply to both surfaces and allow to dry before bringing together" method.
Hope this helps
Stuart Willis |
Jackson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 10:02 am: |
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I had been thinking about using 3M spray adhesive for those situations where it's reasonable to completely remove the covering. I'll give it a try next time.
What is Wellbond? I don't recall seeing it at the local home improvement centers. When you refer to it as a white glue, do you mean that it's a water-based wood glue like Elmer's?
Thanks for all the suggestions! |
paul ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 04:05 pm: |
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And if you use the contact cement, you'll have one hell of a time peeling the leatherete off next time you have to do any repairs inside that body. Use the double sided sticky and make the next repairman happy. |
Dan Mitchell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2004 - 11:38 pm: |
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Oops, it's actually called "Weldbond". I found it at an ACE hardware store. It is a water based glue very similar to Elmer's but is thicker and seems to make a stronger bond, IMO. |
paul ron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2004 - 05:01 am: |
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BTW the thin double sided tape is available in single rolls at art supply stores, also at home depot as a carpet/flooring tape, also in sporting goods stores where golf equipment is sold known as grip tape.
As I have said, if you use the contact cement, that leatherete will never be peeled again unless you destroy it. Most screws are under it and will make access to the camera's works a pain in the a$$.
Peel off the old leatherete and clean it off. Put on the tape and you'll have a professional looking job.
When buying old cameras I check if the edges are glued and automatically suspect what I call "meatball mechanics" and will offer you very little for it no matter how nice you've cleaned it up with WD40 or liquid shoe polish. |
