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Kkl122002
Tinkerer
Username: Kkl122002
Post Number: 43
Registered: 05-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 10:04 pm: | 
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My Voigtlander prominent 's leather skin has loosen. I need to stick it back. Can anyone tell me which glue or tape I should use? |
M_currie
Tinkerer
Username: M_currie
Post Number: 64
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 10:08 am: |
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Some people like contact cement, but my favorite glue for old cameras, especially if you think you might ever have to peel the skin off again, is craft glue. At fabric and craft stores you can buy something resembling common white glue, but which is water resistant, and remains slightly flexible, used for gluing fabric together and other such projects. My favorite of these is something called "Alene's Tacky Glue," bought at a JoAnne fabric store. It has enough body to hold the leather on, but still allows you to adjust the fit a little before it dries. It seems to hold very strongly, but if you later have to remove it, it's much easier to clean off than contact cement. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 53
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2007 - 07:22 am: |
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PLease don't use glue? I just finished doing a camera that had the skin glued on with some sort of contact cement and I had to destroy it to get it off. Now the camera has a new skin, looking like a new camera but not original anymore. As the old skin gets old it gets brittle adn the glue makes peeling it a nightmare.
USE Double sided tape, the thin stuff that looks like scotch tape. PLEASE? |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 163
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2007 - 07:12 pm: |
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I fully agree with Paul. Micro-Tools sell a vinyl double sided tape especially for this task. It appears to be the same product that is used on their sheets of self adhesive camera coverings. Accurate positioning of the leatherette is very easy if one wets (licks!) the first 1/2" of the tape, before you position the covering on the camera.
I have found that similar tapes are used in the auto industry. Not only are the tapes very thin and strong, they are very stable to temperature and body oils. |
Kkl122002
Tinkerer
Username: Kkl122002
Post Number: 44
Registered: 05-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2007 - 03:56 pm: |
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I see. I am using the double siled tape now. And it works. However, I afraid that it might fall off again. If it does, what should I do? |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 54
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2007 - 04:53 pm: |
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First peel off the entire piece of leatherete and clean both the camera and the back of it as best you can. Then put the tape on the entire leatherete surface. Peel n stick. It won't come up again. |
Pablomartinez
Tinkerer
Username: Pablomartinez
Post Number: 84
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 10, 2007 - 04:05 am: |
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However, if you use 2 sided tape, do not leave your camera close to a heat source or under the sun because the tape tends to unglue. |
Stumedic
Tinkerer
Username: Stumedic
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2007 - 06:05 pm: |
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Shellac was the glue that was generally used to fasten leather to metal. Apply the shellac to the metal surfaces, wait till it gets tacky, then apply the leather. Clean up can be done with denatured alcohol. The shellac holds well but the leather can still be removed if necessary. Stu |
Turnergande
Tinkerer
Username: Turnergande
Post Number: 38
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2007 - 08:47 pm: |
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Looking closer at the early XG series Minoltas I can see that they used a double sided tape. Maybe the tape they used was sub-standard as those leatherettes are usually found to be peeling back and shrinking significantly. Then again maybe it was the leatherette itself that was sub-standard. In any case I'll give the double sided tape a try next time I install leatherette. |
Blue_agave
Tinkerer
Username: Blue_agave
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 02:50 am: |
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If you use tape, try to use one which is plasticizer resistant - I believe the 3M version is F9465. Otherwise, the tape will let go when the vinyl does its plasticizing goo-sweat thing. |
Commando303
Tinkerer
Username: Commando303
Post Number: 15
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2008 - 12:09 am: |
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Elmer's white glue? Seems to work fine. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 324
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 19, 2008 - 03:13 pm: |
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No matter which adhesive system you use, it must have one property - be reversible. Reversal can be physical or chemical - at the simplest, peel off or moisten with water. You do not want to permanently bond trim panels, that may have to be removed for servicing. I personally use a plasticiser proof double sided tape on both leather and vinyl trim. For subsequent repairs, if you peel off the trim complete with the tape - use a little naphtha or alcohol if well bonded, you will not damage the leather/vinyl. If you use a tape with a thin mylar base, you can just keep applying a new piece of tape whenever the trim is removed. The additional layers will not be noticeable or cause bonding problems. Doing this reduces the chance of damaging the original leatherette. Nothing worse than removing the original undamaged, then finding at a subsequent repair, that your modern adhesive prevents undamaged removal of an irreplaceable original panel. |
Frankencamera
Tinkerer
Username: Frankencamera
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 12:04 pm: |
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I've used something called "melange" before from the craft/school supplies section. It seems similar to rubber cement I used as a kid and even has a rubber tip applicator which helps to make a thin layer of the stuff. Its flexible when dry and peels off metal fine but I'm not sure if it would come off wood.. i imagine so but I havent tried it. |
Cameraguru
Tinkerer
Username: Cameraguru
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 12:41 pm: |
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NO TAPE! NO ELMERS GLUE! My goodness. I"ve been regluing leather back on cameras for 15 years. I have the best solution. GO to Wal-Mart or Home Depot and buy 5 Min EPOXY. Comes in a two tube solution. When you push it out, you mix the two solutions together. Work fast. It's the best. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 205
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 03:53 pm: |
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EPOXY? And you have no intensions of ever opening or servicing that camera again? |
Marty
Tinkerer
Username: Marty
Post Number: 63
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 05:53 pm: |
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I've been gluing leather onto old cameras for 40 plus years, and after trying a number of products, I've come to use plain old Elmer's white glue more than anything else. It's easy to slide the leather into the proper position, and after holding pressure on it for a couple of minutes, it stays put pretty well.
HOWEVER, my cameras are more in the pre-1920 "antique" realm than the "classic" type which more often require removal of leather for future repairs. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 206
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 08:41 pm: |
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Yes reversability is most important since the guy that has to get in after you will cuss you to hell n back as I have done many times encountering permenant glues instead of double sided tape or someother reversable adhesive.
What alot of people also don't realize is real leather will absorb some of the glue n become brittle thus ruining it forever. |
Mndean
Tinkerer
Username: Mndean
Post Number: 210
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 - 11:11 am: |
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I curse whoever previously worked on the Canon Demi S I own. They used some sort of cement or epoxy which is so tenacious that I have to be careful in removing the leatherette skin since the outer case is aluminum, and of course the leatherette is ruined since it comes off in small bits. I've left it in my project box until I feel up to finishing the job. I thought of using shellac or double-sided tape when I buy a new piece of leatherette for the camera. |
Stewartk
Tinkerer
Username: Stewartk
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2011 - 05:03 pm: |
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This is kind of a late entry here but wanted to add a note: I have been using an item that has worked very well for me and several of my recovering and repair projects on both cameras and Leather cases for light meters etc. It's DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. Smells really strong but it cleans up easily with a q Tip and alcohol and I find that the Wintergreen type of isopropyl alcohol works the best for cleaning up any left over residue on the camera body if the leather ever needs to be removed in the future. It's important to follow the directions and only use a light coat on both surfaces. I apply mine with a few special brushes for just that purpose. The thickness is just a bit thicker than water and flows very well but has a fairly medium to long set time, up to 30 minutes before you must either re-coat or apply the parts to each other. I also allow about a day for the item to "rest" after gluing. As mentioned, clean up is fast, quick and easy. I have once forgotten to wipe my one brush and the next day I thought it was lost but after a few minutes with a rag and the wintergreen rubbing alcohol, it was as good as new.
I got a whole camera done and after a few months decided that I did not care for the covering I had put on it and decided to change it with a nice dark red leather. Removal of the old - new covering was quick and easy, it just peeled right off. A bit of elbow grease and a rag with alcohol took the rest off and I was ready again.
It worked for me but might not be the best solution for every type of covering out there but so far, 5 cameras and 3 restored meter cases later I'm happy with the outcome.
One note: if its used internally close to a lens assembly then proper ventilation is required during and after the process to eliminate to possibility of fogging the lens. This is true for Super Glue as well and mentioned in several restoration sites and restoration texts.
Anyway, I hope it may help someone! |
Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2011 - 12:32 pm: |
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The old school adhesive from the 1970's is plybond (designed for the auto ind. to apply vinyl tops) or as the Japanese tech. manuals printed it "PRYBOND". This is not a joke. They had that in the tech. sheets as they have a hard time pronouncing the L and it comes out as an R. The trouble is as you seem to have noticed. That to remove the leatherette would destroy it. But when you are the MFG, not a problem as you put on a new set of skins anyway after servicing the unit. I will have to scan what some of you have come up with as there are a lot more adhesives to choose from now. The MFG's did start to have a pre-glued skin that you just peeled off the paper and applied to the camera, these would peel in the corners and attracted sand etc... |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 90
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 01:25 pm: |
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Here near the German border in West-Europe it's quite easy to get Kövulfix contact adhesive which is a very nice glue for all kinds of leatherette.
For the though cases i use Pattex Repair Extreme, also a contact adhesive but with more strength. A rather expensive glue.
I never use Epoxy for leather. It may be quick and strong but it takes away any future chance of getting the leatherette off again in one whole piece. |
Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school
Post Number: 28
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 09, 2011 - 03:59 am: |
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A quick review of the above comments & no referral to this site: http://www.cameraleather.com/
that stands out. It is also nice to know about as they give some pointers on resurfacing your gear. If not familiar with it , check it out.
Good Day! |
Puderse
Tinkerer
Username: Puderse
Post Number: 57
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 - 03:38 pm: |
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Anybody know what agfa speedex R cameras used to hold the skin on? Got a complete camera with Solinar very cheap but it will need a complete re-do. Have 5 already that I have overhauled to various degrees by my self. This one will be all my work for good or ill.
The skin is coming off like the dried skin of an onion. I want to use the original skin. Need to get the glue off the skin without stretching or shrinking.
I can clean the metal but saving and re-using the skin is the real issue.
Help me Obie-wan |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 253
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 - 07:21 pm: |
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Hey you heard the jury... they don't really give a crap what anyone says so pick one n go with it.
. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 920
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2011 - 06:29 pm: |
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Sid's problem has nothing to do with choosing a new adhesive, rather the removal of the old adhesive from the original leatherette to allow it to be reattached.
In cases where the original needs to be reused - I clean the backing by sticking the leatherette face down onto a formica faced board, using a piece of low tack double sided tape. Always make sure the tape is at least 1/2" larger than the covering. The adhesive can now be removed with a suitable solvent applied via cotton buds or even gentle mechanical means. Always let the surface dry between applications of solvent - it is much like cleaning a valuable painting, a little applied often. Remove the completely dry covering, by first lifting the double sided tape from the board with the covering attached. Very gently peel back about !/2" of tape from the covering, hold the covering down on the board by the tape free end and then remove the remaining tape by peeling it back on its self. This action stops the surface finish of the leatherette being pulled off the 'backing'.
Used this method on the leather and 'fabric' coverings on many antique objects, from cameras to books, that I have restored over the years and it allowed many original coverings to be reattached properly. |
Fallisphoto
Tinkerer
Username: Fallisphoto
Post Number: 178
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 14, 2011 - 10:23 am: |
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If you use contact cement, it is perfectly fine and it is reversable, as long as you do NOT follow the directions. Only put it on one surface and put it on wet. Dries about like rubber cement and sticks about as hard. You CAN peel it off. If you follow the directions and put it on both surfaces and let them dry, it sticks like crazy. |
