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Kkl122002
Tinkerer
Username: Kkl122002
Post Number: 47
Registered: 05-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 07:13 am: | 
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I am having problem when I remove the screws of the lens/camera body. The screws are so difficult to remove that I usually ruined their head and it destroyed its original beauty.
SO what and how should I do to avoid this?
BTW, if the screw is still there but its head is ruined, how to remove the screw? |
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 50
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 05:44 pm: |
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For all of the interesting answers here, try the search function with something like "screw removal difficult".
After several years of postings, I think that the search function is one of the most valuable functions of the site- and you don't have to wait for an answer! |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 369
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 06:59 pm: |
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One of the main things is to make sure that the screwdriver fits properly. I find that even good brands of drivers very seldom fit slotted screws, their blades are too thick for their width and I have to grind them down. There are also different variations on the "Phillips" type head, and having the correct type of driver for your screw makes a huge difference in the likelihood of slipping out and the amount of torque you can safely apply. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 172
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 08, 2007 - 07:30 pm: |
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The most important thing to remember; the tip of a screwdriver for slotted screws, must have parallel sides and be of the correct diameter. For counter sunk screwheads you will have to relieve the edges of the tip, otherwise you will damage the finish of the counter-sunk hole.
Screwdriver tips of this form/shape are to be found on the 'turnscrews' produced by gunsmiths of old. Hence the lack of damaged screwheads on many old 'best guns'.
As Rick states, crosshead drivers can vary enormously. A major problem with many is that the diameter of the handle, whilst correct for giving the correct tightening torque, is too small to allow a proper grip to remove certain screws.For removing screws I have enlarged the handles with epoxy filler to allow better grip. ie The three axial screws at the rear of new type Canon FD lenses, which are torqued up really tight by the manufacturer. Damage the heads of these and you have a hell of a job to drill off the hardened head. generally speaking, slotted headed screws are not hardened and can be removed by first drilling off the head. The shank can then be worked out with a watchmakers screwdriver. In many cases, if you give the screwdriver a light tap,this will indent the top of the shank just enough to give the driver tip purchase. |
Olly_ympus
Tinkerer
Username: Olly_ympus
Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 08, 2007 - 08:47 pm: |
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Stubborn camera fasteners sometimes need a bit of persuasion, just like machines in a larger scale.
I find that a few gentle taps with a small hammer can loosen a tight screw in no time. Just be careful and don't overdo it. Many screws in cameras will be locked in with a little bit of varnish and that's all. Easy to break loose. |
Mndean
Tinkerer
Username: Mndean
Post Number: 17
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 08, 2007 - 09:02 pm: |
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Many years ago, I had an SLR lens which I needed to remove the mount to do some work. Well, I got the other screws out (I think it had four altogether) but the last was very tight and unscrewing had been attempted before, so the head starting stripping. I got it out far enough before it wouldn't turn at all, and took some needlenose to remove the screw and the screw snapped off at the base of the lens where it screwed in. Upshot was that when the lens went back together it was sans one screw since I couldn't get the shank out and it was uneconomical to get anyone else to do it. I don't think I used it much, but didn't see any difference in images when I did, either. |
Spdtwn
Tinkerer
Username: Spdtwn
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 10, 2007 - 02:48 pm: |
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A Nikon tech once told me that certain screws,we were talking about the ones securing the rear bayonet mount to the lens, were assembled while applying heat to the surrounding area,which when cooled contracted around the screw. If you have ever attempted to remove one you will know what I mean. A bit of heat from a small soldering iron helps. Screws are sometimes lacquered and respond to light application of M.E.K.( care with use,it can melt plastic!) |
