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Toomanycams
Tinkerer
Username: Toomanycams

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2008

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Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I picked up a really nice Canon IVS rangefinder at the Toronto camera show yesterday. $60 with a 1.8 Serenar was too good to pass up!

Unfortunately I found out when I got it home that there is a pretty good size hole in one of the shutter curtains. The hole is about 3/16 or 2mm so it is too big to patch with a "dab of paint". My question is whether anyone has a good idea for patching a slightly larger hole? A lot of things would patch it but I am looking for a way of maintaining the curtains suppleness so that I don't get any shutter run problems.

Some will suggest new curtains but I've tried that before and it is a lot of work. Other than the hole, the curtain (and camera) condition is excellent.

Also, any hints on getting a 50mm 1.8 chrome Serenar apart for cleaning? There isn't a single screw visible anywhere. I assume all will be revealed if I remove the rear (or front) lens group.

Thanks from a new member,
David
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Dgillette4
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Username: Dgillette4

Post Number: 210
Registered: 04-2007

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Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well Dave replacing is best but for a user you can patch the curatin and glue in place, I used to use fairprene but doubt if it is available, Do you have any junkers with usable material? Remember to keep it light and as thin as possible, Also it has to be flexable enough to go on the curtain roller. I might have a piece of material if you don't. check this repair site in the manuals section or a sub catagory. good luck and keep me updated on it..Don
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Petercat
Tinkerer
Username: Petercat

Post Number: 33
Registered: 01-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 06:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

David, I have had a lot of success using flexible black fabric paint I purchased in the crafts section of Sprawl Mart. I usually thin it with a little water and brush it on to seal pinholes, but it is thick enough that it would probably seal a "sun hole" which is probably what you have. It dries waterproof.
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 356
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If you bridge the gap with a small piece of cigarette paper, you will find that fabric paint will repair quite large holes. This method produces a good repair that is both thin and flexible.

Use a trace of the paint to first stick the paper patch down, then apply the paint carefully to both sides of the blind - apply the paint to one side and let dry before doing the reverse face of the blind. With care you can make a very smooth repair. Another suitable base paper is genuine Japanese Tissue, as used in book binding repairs - this is a very strong, thin paper.
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Toomanycams
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Username: Toomanycams

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2008

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Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks guys for all the great recomendations. I've got some of the rubber paint (a paint-on electrical insulator style) and will practice on an external "something" to see what size hole I can bridge. The cigarette paper idea sounds like a real winner too.

Too answer my second question, the Serenar 1.8 was pretty easy to get apart. Removing a rear retaining ring let all the lens elements plus the aperature assembly slide out the front as a unit. I was then able to get the filter ring fairly straight(the reason for taking the lens apart)with a scrap of oak and a hammer with a lot of judicious tapping. I lay the lens housing on a sheet of hard rubber and then cut the tip of the oak scrap to a radius a little tighter than the inside of the filter ring. This was a solid brass mount so it takes a harder whack than an aluminum mount to "move it". As always, its better to go gently and check often as you alter the shape.

David Smith

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