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Robotron
Tinkerer
Username: Robotron
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 07:32 am: | 
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Hi all,
Just discovered this great forum, which helped me deciding which rangefinder to get my hands on. I recently aquired a Yashica Electro 35 GTN in beautiful condition.
So far I've replaced the light seals using Jon Goodmans light seals kit - great set btw - however not yet the Pad Of Death. The seals were in terrible condition, but with patience I managed to replace the dissolved seals with new ones.
Last weekend I wanted to run a film through the camera to see whether meter and such are working correctly, but this got stopped prematurely, when I figured out, that no matter what combinations I set ISO and fStop to, the organge 'Over' indicator would light up every time. No matter whether I pointed the camera to a dark spot with fStop 16 and lowest ISO, 'Over' would light up.
After digging around in this forum for a while, there seem to be people who had meter problems with their Electro 35s, some related to the POD. Now I'm thinking that this might be the cause of the problem, but it also could be the meter circuit.
I've found service manuals and dug around at yashica-guy.com and mattdentonphoto.com and various other blogs and sources, so I'm a little informed about the Electros and potential problems.
Has anyone had a similar experience with their Electros?
Thanks in advance for any help on this.
R |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 145
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 08:30 am: |
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Sounds like the POD. It can have many varied affects on the operation of the camera. If it has not been replaced, assume that it is the root of the issue and fix it. Once it is replaced, then you can make adjustments if necessary. |
Donnie_strickland
Tinkerer
Username: Donnie_strickland
Post Number: 143
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 09:21 am: |
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What Wayne said. |
Robotron
Tinkerer
Username: Robotron
Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 10:05 am: |
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Yeah, I thought so.
Saturday for checking and fixing then...
Thanks guys
R |
Jstair
Tinkerer
Username: Jstair
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 02:11 pm: |
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I can't figure out how a bad POD could cause this specific problem (although it's a good idea to replace it anyway). I would try cleaning the wiper contacts linked to the shutter release. There are 5 of them. If the contacts that connect the CdS series resistor to ground are dirty or bent, it would cause a problem like you are describing. |
Robotron
Tinkerer
Username: Robotron
Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 06:18 am: |
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Thanks Jstair,
I'll check that out. Probably need to organize some volt meter and have the service manual art hand. Would'nt hurt to get some measurings when the body's already open...
Thanks for all your responses. I shall let you know about the outcome.
R |
Fallisphoto
Tinkerer
Username: Fallisphoto
Post Number: 248
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 09:44 am: |
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With Yashica G-series cameras, a rule of thumb is that you should assume the POD is responsible for ANY exposure problem until it is replaced -- simply because it so extremely often is the problem -- and only then look elsewhere. |
Thepurush
Tinkerer
Username: Thepurush
Post Number: 10
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 09:21 am: |
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Well the problem isn't serous. BTW u didn't mention if the camera shutter opens for long time when u point to a darker subject and click in A mode.
Does the B mode work OK.If the yellow light come On and the shuuter remains open as it should then your circuite is ok. Please provide me this data and i will trouble shoot yr problem. Do not unnecessarily poke here n there. In fact if Red Over exposure light comes on shows that the cir suite is working properly. Please also check the resistance across the big resistor on the pcb. Also let me know if you have the repair manual. You can also correspond with me directly thru mail if that is faster. I wd be glad to help you out with this. |
Robotron
Tinkerer
Username: Robotron
Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2012 - 03:24 am: |
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Hi Thepurush,
Thanks for your answer. I've replaced the Pad Of Death anyway. The shutter release didn't come back up after pushing it down, so I had to open the body regardless to perform replacement and cleaning. Still, the problem persists. The low light indicator always flashes.
I will check shutter in B mode. The red over indicator works as in it flashes when starting to push the shutter knob in. But pushing it further down, the yellow inicator comes on.
Thanks
R |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 148
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2012 - 07:57 am: |
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It sounds like you now need to adjust the movement of the shutter release mechanism by fiddling with the "rods". These can be accessed from the bottom of the camera. There are two of them and they have slotted ends for adjusting. I can't remember exactly which rod does what, but you should be able to find a repair manual somewhere that would explain it. Actually, I think I have a PDF. If you send me a PM, I can email it to you. |
Robotron
Tinkerer
Username: Robotron
Post Number: 6
Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2012 - 09:59 am: |
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Hi Jstair,
where are the wiper contacts located? Would that be alongside the rods moved by the shutter release?
Thanks
R |
Robotron
Tinkerer
Username: Robotron
Post Number: 7
Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2012 - 10:21 am: |
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Hi all,
I've found a pretty good GTN service manual. Posting here, assuming it's alright to do this.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/19302555/Yashica-Electro-35-Service-Manual
Thanks
R |
Jstair
Tinkerer
Username: Jstair
Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2012 - 02:16 pm: |
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Yes, the main shutter release rod is coupled (via the POD) to a secondary rod. The wipers are connected to this secondary rod, and they make contact with a series of pads on the circuit board.
The design is such that each light comes on at a different point in the shutter stroke. You should have either one light come on, or no lights come on. If both lights are coming on during the same stroke of the shutter button, there is definitely something wrong.
You stated in your original post that the "over" light would always turn on. In a more recent post, you stated that the "low light" or "slow" light would always turn on. Can you clarify which one you are having issues with, or do they both always come on? This would change my original diagnosis. Do the shutter speeds seem correct, or does it always fire at the fastest speed? Or does the shutter stay open? |
Jstair
Tinkerer
Username: Jstair
Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2012 - 02:24 pm: |
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FYI, here is a good write up on adjusting the rods that Waynemel mentioned. http://www.monopix.co.uk/yashicarods.shtml It won't fix the issue you are having, but it should be done before you put everything back together. |
Robotron
Tinkerer
Username: Robotron
Post Number: 8
Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2012 - 03:10 am: |
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Hi Jstair,
Sorry about the confusion. What's happening is, that when I push the shutter release button, the red light (over) flickers and the camera makes weird noises, but pushing the button further down always flashes the yellow (slow) light.
Pushing the button down entirely and the shutter fires, but doesn't stay open. I believe it always fires at the same speed, but whether it's 1/500th I can't tell.
R |
Thepurush
Tinkerer
Username: Thepurush
Post Number: 21
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2012 - 11:14 am: |
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This camera shutter release button has unusually long stroke. This long stroke 3 stages though the release it self moves smoothly. In the first stage it checks if the aperture setting is too big for the light availble. If it is so it will light up red light to warrn you else it doesnt light. Similarly in 2nd stage further down it checks if the sutter speed is going to be below 1/30 sec, if so it warns by lighting the yello lamp else nothing. Then in the 3rd stage it actually trigggers shutter.
This happenes in the mode A. Yhave given a decription of what happenes during this stage. But if you could explain what happenes in B mode?
It makes trouble shooting easy if that info too is provided. Which lights lit up and weather shutter remains open as long as u keep button pressed?.
Bcause both ligts do lit up in some stage or other it indiactes the circuite itself is alright but there could be some thing wrong on the PCB or the connections of the sliding switch under shutter release.
Shuuter release not returning back is a pure mechanical problem and it can be set right easily. |
Jstair
Tinkerer
Username: Jstair
Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2012 - 07:23 pm: |
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If it is making funny sounds, that is probably arcing due to dirty contacts. I really believe the behavior you are describing is caused by more than one faulty contact (which is quite possible if the camera has been sitting for years without being used). Take a look at the schematic here: http://personal.inet.fi/koti/picnet/Y35G/schema1.jpg I would clean the following: Switches 2a, 2b, and 2c which are the wiper contacts connected to the shutter release, switches 3a and 3b which are the A/B/F switches located in the lens housing (page 93 and 94 of the manual), switch S1 (labeled as "battery switch" on page 96 of the manual) which is located in the shutter mechanism. Also clean the switch coupled to the aperture selection ring (underneath diaphragm resistors on page 94).
I had similar problems on my electro, and I fixed it by sliding a folded piece of fine grit sandpaper between the contacts and finishing with denatured alcohol on a q-tip. Be gentle with the sandpaper. The contacts are gold plated, and I would assume the plating is pretty thin. While you are in there, also check for loose or broken wires at the solder joints. Let us know how it goes. |
Doubleweight
Tinkerer
Username: Doubleweight
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 08:31 pm: |
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I just bought a beautiful black Yashica Electro 35 GT - doesn't look like it has ever been used. I put in a new battery, and the battery check light came on, and the yellow and red exposure indicator lights seem to work fine. The problem is that the shutter always fires like it is on the "B" setting, no matter what the f stop or lighting condition is.
I switched the setting from "Auto" to "B" to "Flash" several times with no better results.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I really want to get this camera to work.
Thanks very much.
Jim Howell |
Doubleweight
Tinkerer
Username: Doubleweight
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 08:40 pm: |
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Let me amend my original posting - it appears the yellow "slow" light is operating, but not the red one.
Thanks |
Thepurush
Tinkerer
Username: Thepurush
Post Number: 73
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2013 - 10:24 am: |
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Dear Doubleweight
Please confirm to me the behaviour of camera in F and B mode, but after reading the following para
You will need to ensure before testing that your able to set ASA as u like and when turn ASA dial u shd see opening increase decrese in the window just infront of shutter release.
To check the shutter operaion u need to remove lens cap, open back cover then look thru the lense(from the back itself) while u press the shuuter release all the way down. I the shuuter opens u will see light coming thru the lense.
In B mode the shutter shd remain open as long as u keep release button pressed and should close when u release it fully only.
In flash mode, youshould see shutter open and closse quickly without waiting for release of the button.
That would be the behaviour of a camera in good condition.
Please give me a detailed account of what happenes in above 2 tests.
Seccondly, testing lights can be done with camera back cover closed and by just looking at the lights as you press shuttre release slowly. Remember that red light is connected first, then the yellow next as u push it further down.
The 2 lights are not connected at same time but one after the othre along the stroke of shutter release.
Let me know the behaviour of lights in the above test in F mode and B mode.
In any case you will need the repair manual downloaded so that i can refer to various pictures during trouble shooting. U may also have to open the front plate of camera along withthe lense.
Please donot open the lense. every thing can be done outside the lense only. |
