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Morris
Tinkerer
Username: Morris
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2012 - 07:22 am: | 
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The Coreco Automatic Color Camera, Model 300
I have found a rare photographic device which I imagine you wont have come across before. It seems to be in good condition considering its age and where I found it but there are a number of issues which are stopping it from working. I am posting this in the hope that this forum might teach me a bit more about it and hopefully set me on the road to repairing it. If you are interested and have a few minutes spare read on:
To cut a long story short (or at least shorter);
- A few weeks ago I found an interesting case in a skip in South East London.
- It contained an old photographic instrument called the ‘Coreco Automatic Color Camera, Model 300’. There is very little to be found on the internet about this device.
- Through some research I have found that the camera was produced in the 1940s with the purpose of taking fully automatic close-up medical photographs.
- By playing around with it I think I understand how the camera functions. It uses a novel automatic system to control the variables that affect an exposure.
- The variables are controlled physically, by the proportions of a variety of attachments. Each has a different purpose/intended subject.
- The attachments included in the case I found are intended for various special applications, notably photographing the interior of the vagina.
- I am intrigued by the mechanics of this camera and have decided I want to get it to function again.
- I have identified a number of problems which I think are preventing the camera from operating there may be more that well come up along the way. I am hoping this forum may hold some answers to these.
You can read a full write up on what I know about the camera on my blog here:
http://morriswild.tumblr.com/post/33843359142/on-the-2-10-2012-on-a-wet-autumnal -day-i-found-a
I have documented the device photographically in this set on my flickr account which you can see here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mwmwmwmwmwmw/sets/72157631782577016/
Each image is annotated, If you are interested enough please read through it, this should get you up to speed with how in my opinion the camera functions.
I have a basic knowledge of photography and no experience in Camera repair however I think in essence this camera is a simple device. The three main issues I see with this Camera are these:
1. The Integral lighting system is mains powered, and runs via a transformer from an American style plug. There may be issues with incompatible Voltage/Current, I have no real knowledge of electronics. Regardless of this the wiring is more then 70 years old and may need replacing.
2. The bulbs are all blown; replacements may be difficult to source.
3. The shutter winding system seems to be jammed
So, what advice can you give me?
I will be documenting my progress with the camera on my blog:
www.morriswild.tumblr.com |
Highdetail
Tinkerer
Username: Highdetail
Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2012 - 10:14 am: |
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Do you think this could be a standard camera e.g a German compact like a Voigtlander, re-branded and fitted to the chassis of the lighting unit?
Any names or numbers on the lens or baseplate ?
Be careful how you go. I read somewhere this week the statement that 'most amateurs dismantle too much of the camera' and elsewhere that 'gentle touch with fingers and not a spanner in case the gears get broken'
I am quietly dismantling a camera and photographing everything I do before and after taking anything off. Its a nightmare unless you have a repair manual or exploded view to work to.
Then keep the parts and screws in paper bags for each step so that when you rebuild you have the correct screws at each stage.
It may only need a touch of lighter fuel to free up gears but be careful if there is a rubber focal plane blind or plastic parts which will get damaged by fuel. |
M_currie
Tinkerer
Username: M_currie
Post Number: 308
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2012 - 04:23 pm: |
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It certainly is a fascinating machine, about which I can tell you nothing, really, except that.
However, one thing I'd suggest is that the bulb may not be broken just because it rattles a bit. It looks to me like a standard projector bulb, and these sometimes had their elements a little loose when off, so that they would not break when hot. It might be worthwhile seeing if you get an ohmmeter reading from it. |
Mndean
Tinkerer
Username: Mndean
Post Number: 291
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2012 - 05:28 pm: |
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Yeah, the bulb is a projector bulb and shows no obvious problems, but what wattage it is I haven't a clue. The Mazda lamps are just regular 250W photofloods, 3400K, for Kodachrome type A film. The lamps are marked good for 3 hours only. They may still be available, I haven't looked for anything like them since the 1990s. Mazda was just the GE brand name for them way back when. |
Morris
Tinkerer
Username: Morris
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 30, 2012 - 10:30 am: |
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Highdetail;
I thought as much, I think the camera body is a modified Kodak Bantam 4.5. The Camera uses a film format which was not widely used at the time and was discontinued in 1963 so is pretty rare today. The format is a paper backed film type similar to 120 film but in the same width as 35mm film. because it did not operate on the sprocket system like 35mm film the images captured were 30% larger at 40 × 28 mm.
I cant see any names or numbers on it, but the film type was not used in many camera types, and visually the cameras resemble each other.
Thanks for your advice on dismantling the Camera I will keep it in mind when I get to that point.
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M currie;
Thanks, I’m glad you think so. Although I’m hoping to find the knowledge I need to repair it; I also want to show the existence of this machine to the world – so your fascination alone is appreciated.
Besides; your comment about the bulb is very useful, I shall try and test it asap. Fingers crossed if it is still intact that is one less thing I need to worry about.
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Mndean;
I have just taken a closer look at the projector bulb socket; I can see some tiny letters they appear to say ‘1000w’ and ‘250v’ might need to get a magnifying glass to confirm this. I can also see the letters GE you mentioned, what do these stand for? General Electric?
Do you have any idea what the function of the smaller interior bulb is, with more squinting I can see the words Projection, Radiant, 100w, 120v, and burn printed onto the glass. The housing is too tight for me to access and remove the bulb so far.
I have just done some googling It looks like there is a lot of specialist light bulb retailers in the UK alone so hopefully I’ll be able to get hold of the bulbs I need.
I really like the Mazda branding it’s really elegant. |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 412
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 30, 2012 - 08:17 pm: |
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Mazda was GE's line of photofloods. And from the looks of the rods, I think this camera was designed for gynocology exams. The rods themselves are standard lengths for certain image sizes or magnifications, and the one photo shows a notation about the cervix, which is part of the female reproductive system. Think about the copy stand gear one could get for say a Retina camera, for doing close-up work, and you get the idea as to how this rig works. The lighting was designed to give consistantly correct color reproduction, so that the technician reading the film could make a good diagnosis. For the use of the small bulb, it could probably be inserted to backlight certain body parts.
828 film was a contract overrun that Kodak was stuck with, so they designed a new line of cameras to use it. You can use regular 35mm film, along with the backing paper from 120 rolls cut to the proper width, if you have the take-up spools. The cheapest way to get those is to buy old 828 cameras at the boot sales if they still have their spools. You would have to place a mask over the green window between windings so that you don't fog the film.
PF |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 413
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 30, 2012 - 08:45 pm: |
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Found three links about Coreco cameras. They were made in different sizes, but all used modified Kodak 828 bodies for the film.
http://www.museumofvision.org/collection/artifacts?accession=2011.011.00001
http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/catalog/dw12.htm
http://webspace.webring.com/people/dm/mbarel/coreco.html
Hope this helps.
PF |
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