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Aaron Howard
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Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 12:56 am: | 
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I am simply loving reading and exploring this forum. But, I am having trouble finding exactly what I want to know. I hope you guys can help.
First off I have no/very little camera repair experience. I am very mechanically inclined, though, anything and everything I own I’ve taken apart and put back together again (if I can take it apart I can put it back together.)
Let me start with the srT 101. I bought it for $10 the mirror was stuck up. Short story easy fix.
1. It has a flash sink (X) on the side and what looks like a second one above it marked (FP.) What does this “FP” stand for and what is it?
2. The depth of field preview button does not work. Help?
3. I took the leatherette off the front too disassemble/explore and clean the camera (it was full of sand.) What is the best way to glue/put these back on?
4. Is the prism coated can I clean it? How easy is it to screw-up the focusing screen?
5. The light metering seems to be fine based on its response to light and the fact that the needle moves to the right place when put on battery check. Any input on the metering would be appreciated
6. However, I was disappointed when I listened to the shutter speeds and noticed that the second and half seconds where notably too long (I would say, this is only my estimation, that 1 second was about 1.4 seconds while the half was about 0.7 the seconds.) What can I do? Does this only affect the speeds slower than the sink speed (1/60) or do all the speeds rely on that same timing mechanism?
Next my 201: this was my first camera and I love it. It is immaculate inside and out. I had had the light seals changed and the shutter calibrated, a few months later the meter stopped giving good exposures then the needle just stopped moving.
1. I gave the needle a nudge tonight and put a fresh battery in. The meter started to “work” again. The meter appears to be responding okay, but on the BC it will not move to where it is supposed to go (it does move it just does not move down far enough.) Suggestions? What can I do?
2. How long do these stupid wein cells last? Is it just as good to get an o-ring and put it on a 1.4V hearing aid battery? What about adapters?
Last but not least by any means my XE-7: it is near mint and I love it.
1. It needs a new mirror “bumper.” I cannot get the red index dot off. I have tried to loosen it with nail polish remover but that was unsuccessful. If it was not so clean (cosmetically) I would have already given up and grabbed for the needle nose pliers, but there is no way I’m going to do that to this camera. How can I get it off and just as important what is the best way to glue it back once I am done?
2. Though I am sure the process would be the same as the leatherette above I need to put the “leather” cover back on the leaver that shuts the viewfinder doors. Best glue whatever?
Thanks for any info you can give I know it is a lot of stuff that has probably already been answered, but there is so much here and I can’t seem to find what I want with the key word search…So thanks one more time.
Aaron Howard (Augusta, KS)
tahuyaguy@msn.com |
M. Currie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 09:17 am: |
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FP sync is for flashbulbs - specifically for flashbulbs which were designed with a long and even flash duration so they could be used with a focal-plane shutter at higher speeds.
I've been using the hearing-aid version of Wein cells in my old Konica. They last about 3 months, regardless of how they are used. With the tab on, the shelf life of the cells is good, so I just buy a 6-pack and replace as needed. I would expect the camera-specific ones to do a little better, because they have fewer air holes, but I'd still expect short life. The advantage of hearing-aid batteries is that they're cheap and easy to find. I just fudge the ASA setting on the Konica ( using 2 hearing-aid batteries = 2/3 stop), and it works nicely.
I don't know how the Minolta's meter is designed, but it might be worthwhile to see if you can either recalibrate it or compensate for Alkaline or Silver-oxide cells. I found it pretty easy to adjust my old Nikon Photomic FTn, and it's a great convenience.
As I understand it, the timing mechanism used in slow speeds is not used above sync speed, but I imagine that if your shutter is really in need of cleaning etc. all the speeds might be off. However, I wouldn't set too much store by the eyeball estimate, since there may be additional mechanical noise before and after the actual shutter operation, and it would be very hard to judge. A roll of film would probably do better. If you're concerned about the slow speeds, check very carefully for even exposure across the film.
I had good luck recently regluing the leatherette on my Nikon finder using a tacky white craft glue called, oddly enough Aleen's Original Tacky Glue. You can get it at fabric and craft stores.
That's about all I know (or think I know). |
Kevin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 11:44 am: |
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one of my hobbies is replacing camera leather with lizard skins. I use "pliobond" it is an industrial strength contact cement. found at most hardware stores. you should clean the camera body and the leather very well before putting it back on. "Ronsonol" is the fluid used for zippo type lighters and works well to clean your camera. dab it on with q-tips. I also like to redye any leatherette I am reapplying with leather dye. You can find in most shoe stores or the shoe department at wallmarts. |
Michael
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 09:46 pm: |
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Concerning the mirror bumper, why would you want to remove the screw under the red dot? On my XE-7 I simply used a little spatula tool, made for applying putty to models, to scrap it off. Relatively easy and I scrap away from the mirror. Then used some lighter fluid on a q-tip to clean off the residue before applying a new bumper.
I've never had a problem cleaning a prism with a brush and then windex. For the screen I use an old toothbrush with some mild soap and warm water to gently clean. Always hold by the sides to avoid prints. Then I shake it off and gently dry it with a hair dryer on low and at a safe distance. Again never a problem.
You can recalibrate the meter for a 1.5v S76 battery and there is a web site (http://home.pcisys.net/~rlsnpjs/minolta/minolta.html) that gives a good explanation. You can also change your asa by 1 stop, eg: 100 asa down to 50 asa and get the same effect. Recalibration is tougher since you need a known and trusted meter against a consistent background to get reliable results.
The nudge you gave the needle sounds as though the little bumper the needle touchs has degraded and gotten sticky. Needs to be replaced.
Pliobond tends to be a more permanent. If you might go back under you can always use Elmer's white glue and thin it just a "touch" with water and smooth it over the area in question then let it get tacky first. Holding on my Konicas with no problem and I can lift up without tearing anything.
Last the shutter speeds may be ok and as suggested you will need to run a roll of film through. When I need to do that I use a roll of Kodak T-Max, off ebay cheap, shoot it at an average scene throughout the speed range and drop it off at a 1 hour place.
Enjoy those Minoltas as much as I do since a 101 was my very first real camera 33 years ago. Still in great shape yet it now has 11 brothers before even getting into the XG-M, XE's and XD's series. |
Aaron Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 19, 2004 - 09:45 pm: |
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Concerning the mirror bumper on the XE. I guess you are right. But it would be easier to get to if I could get that screw out. And beyond that I really wanted to take the cover off the penta-prism my view finder has some dust in it and I wanted to clean and take care of that at the same time. I still can’t get that dot out and I have been using acetone and it has not loosened any that I can tell.
Thanks guys for everything so far. I really appreciate it.
hmm...never mind know what it looks like the cover comes right off...i got it. |
Aaron Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 19, 2004 - 09:57 pm: |
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thousand times better without the dust. |
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