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herron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 28, 2005 - 09:52 am: | 
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I use a product called "Venetian Black" which I purchase online from the Micro-Tools web site. It appears similar to the old bootblack shoe polish my grandfather used to use (and it can be messy while wet, so watch the area and your clothes). I apply it sparingly to the leather, let it dry for a moment, and then buff it off with a clean rag. It does NOT come off the leather surface with handling when exposed to a little moisture, like a lot of Kiwi (and other) liquid shoe polish types can do.
It covers scuffs very nicely, buffs out well and leaves the camera looking almost as good as new. When it is dry, it does not rub off on your hands or clothing. It is specifically made for camera restoration. I've used it on everything from my old Mamiya 35mm cameras to an 1897 Kodak folder, and I now swear by it for restoring the look of my collection! |
herron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 28, 2005 - 09:57 am: |
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To avoid any confusion with similarly named online sites, the tools, equipment, parts and other camera restoration items sold by Micro-Tools can be found online at http://www.micro-tools.com/ |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 181
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 04:12 pm: |
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Nice tip. |
Prasanna
Tinkerer
Username: Prasanna
Post Number: 17
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 07:26 pm: |
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I use black Nail polish on scuffed/discolored leatherette. It dries fast and remains flexible. It also takes polishing, after drying, nicely. Regards, sp |
Marty
Tinkerer
Username: Marty
Post Number: 39
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 07:38 am: |
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This leather treatment topic is very interesting, and could go on pretty extensively. I've been looking for the "perfect product" for maybe 40 years, and I haven't hit it. This is the topic that first drew me to this board.
I get the feeling that leather preservation isn't as vital anymore as it was in decades, or centuries, past, due to the existence of so many good synthetic materials now. Just not as much need for new research unless your job involves preserving older things.
I HAVE hit on several products I like though. I often will buy an old camera with BADLY dried leather, looking almost as light as a chamois, because they tend to go cheaper that way, and the leather is often otherwise intact. Neatsfoot oil will bring the old dye to life, but it's MESSY and GREASY. I've found I can get the same benefit from using Fiebing's Saddle Oil, available here on the Yank side of the pond... It's colorless, but brings out the dye in old leather like water on a rock, and not nearly as slimy.
If I like the "patina" or gentle wear on old leather and don't want to change the appearance too much, I'll use Lexol... It penetrates and softens the leather a bit without the extreme darkening I'll usually get with Fiebing's Saddle Oil.
When century old cheap split grain leather is so dried out that it's getty flaky, I've used several wet, heavy, coats of a product Kiwi makes for suede and nubuck... Not the cleaner, but it's a preserver or restorer... I can't remember the exact name but I get it at the shoe department at WalMart. It helps the appearance a little and seems to tie the stuff together a bit.
On faded red Bellows, I usually just wet 'em with water using a Q tip. I don't want to darken the leather much, but often a little water will bring the old red dye to life, and it stays that way after it dries.
I don't like most shoe polishes, because they tend to fill things in a bit too much, and it just looks, well, shoe polished. I've been thinking of trying some Renaissance Wax though, after my Feibing's stuff or Lexol dries for a few weeks to restore some of the shine of the leather... I've read good things about it, but I haven't bought any yet. Kinda expensive, but I'm hoping a thin coat will be good... Anybody tried it on leather?
Anyway, no one product I've found does it all, and none of them are perfect. Different things for different situations, and I'm still open to suggestions. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 709
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 05:01 pm: |
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For true leatherette - a paper or fabric reinforced nitrocellulose product - you can do no better than Subbarayan's tip of black nail varnish. Unless you want to use black cellulose dope.
The recipes for preserving/reconstituting leathers are too numerous to list. One should note that all the better/more effective ones originate from the area of preserving leather book bindings. I actually produce and repair leather bindings, thus know there are a number of proprietary products available that will find a place on the camera restorer's bench. Some of the traditional formulations might at first appear too greasy, but if you handle the item in a warm room for a while the products soon completely work in. Admittedly you do not get the same pleasure as handling a fine leather binding, but the Malt always goes down a treat!
The Kiwi product used by Marty can be likened to a very 'thin' varnish/sealant, that waterproofs and stops dirt penetration. This is very similar in action to some preparations that are used to consolidate de-natured leathers in bindings and other antique items, these are usually based on alcohol solutions containing dissolved binders eg. PVA etc. I would hazard a guess that the UK equivalent of Feibling's Saddle Oil would be Hydrophane Leather Dressing. This product is very good but has a tendency attack contact adhesives over the long term - obviously adhesives have no place in stitched leather tack!
Renaissance Wax is certainly not expensive, the tin will last for years - my present tin purchased in Jan 2001 is still half full, even after treating many books and optical items. |
Marty
Tinkerer
Username: Marty
Post Number: 41
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 06:38 pm: |
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Good tips in this thread guys... I'm writing stuff down...  |
Stereopost
Tinkerer
Username: Stereopost
Post Number: 9
Registered: 07-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 09:14 pm: |
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Nothing better than Meltonian shoe cream. Got that info out of a camera restoration section of a camera collecting book back in the late 1970s, and have been using it ever since. Nice thing about Meltonian is the fact that it comes in colors, and always the right shades of brown for the old brown, red mahogany and brass cameras I collected. I still found some locally just a year ago. They may be available online. |
Fallisphoto
Tinkerer
Username: Fallisphoto
Post Number: 176
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 14, 2011 - 10:10 am: |
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"It does NOT come off the leather surface with handling when exposed to a little moisture, like a lot of Kiwi (and other) liquid shoe polish types can do."
Liquid shoe polish is DESIGNED to come off with water. Next time try leather DYE. |
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