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Steve_roberts
Tinkerer
Username: Steve_roberts
Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 09:55 am: | 
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My Yashica 35 is in amazing condition except for the fact that the lens focussing is very stiff - probably nothing more than the drying out of the lubricant. I should explain that this isn't one of the multitude of 35 Electros, GSNs etc., with metering and what-have-you, but the 1958/59 model with the f1.8 lens. I've no experience of repairing RF cameras (except the Kodak Retina IIa) and wonder if cleaning and re-lubricating the lens thread is feasible or whether it's something likely to be full of pitfalls. Any advice gratefully received!
Thanks,
Steve |
Reiner
Tinkerer
Username: Reiner
Post Number: 55
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 01, 2008 - 11:46 pm: |
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Hi Steve,
I am moderatelly skilled in repairing old RFs and I had the same came camera with the same problem and in same condition. In this case I decided to sell this camera as defective shelf item.
For re-lubrication of the thread it would be necessary to dismantle the lens barrel and to take the whole lens plate off the camera body. Therefore the leatherette has to be peeled back. It was stiff and brittle. Doing that on my Yashica 35 would have ruined the excellent original condition. |
Dmorg
Tinkerer
Username: Dmorg
Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 02, 2008 - 12:10 pm: |
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Hi Steve, you didn't buy it off Reiner did you
:-))
Good luck with it, I've caught the repair bug and this is an invaluable forum.
Cheers |
John_scott
Tinkerer
Username: John_scott
Post Number: 14
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 04, 2008 - 10:58 am: |
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If you want to keep the camera in prstine condition for a display shelf, then don't try to fix it.
If you want to actually use it, then by all means have a go at it.
Yes, to properly remedy the stiff focus, you should spend the 2-3 hours it takes to remove the whole shutter/lens assembly, dismantle the focusing helix threads, remove the old grease, and put in new grease.
But before you decide to do that, you can also try a short-cut, which is to carefully drip a few drops of solvent (lighter fluid) as directly as you can into the focusing threads. That sometimes loosens up the action enough to be able to focus smoothly.
The key word here is FEW. If you get it in the right place, it should take no more than 8-10 drops, at most. Use a syringe, if possible, for accuracy. If you get any on the lens glass, then you have to clean it off carefully.
Set the lens to infinity, open the back door, and you should be able to see the rear-most focus threads. With the lens pointing down, put a 4-5 drops of solvent in different places aound the threads, wait a few seconds, and then start working the focus back and forth between its extremes.
From the front of the camera, you can't get the solvent in the right place. |
Steve_roberts
Tinkerer
Username: Steve_roberts
Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2008 - 05:27 am: |
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Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice. I'm not one for putting cameras on shelves and looking at them - all of mine have to earn their keep, if only occasionally. Thus, if it's necessary I wouldn't be averse to dismantling the camera, even if it means sacrificing the pristine condition (though I'd do my best to ensure that wasn't the case). However, I regard camera repairs as being like surgery - the less invasive the fix, the better it is for the patient, so I'll try John's suggestion before I reach for the screwdrivers!
Thanks again,
Steve |
Reiner
Tinkerer
Username: Reiner
Post Number: 59
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 11:23 pm: |
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In the past I have used John's short-cut on several camera with different success. Using just a solvent it is possible to get the focus move again but it will dry out and freeze again after some days or weeks. I made much better experience with fine oil.
Gun oil might be an option or nyoil. My preferred one is good synthetic engine oil. Apply only sparringly and let it soften the dried grease. After some hours try to work the thread. If necessary apply again, repeat after some days. The problem is not to apply too much otherwise the oil and the goo might find it's way into the shutter. At the other hand it has to be enough to soften the old grease. Ideally the focus will be soft and smooth again. Mostly however it will be good enough to use but uncomfortable with some distance areas working easy others remain stiffer.
In the case of my Yashica 35 RF I did not even try the shortcut. The focus was not like frozen it was like welded. An attempt to work it ended with a loose distance ring. Like you I do not like defective self sitters and I have more than 100 RFs needing repair. Thus I decided to sell this one as a defective shelf model. The Yashica 35's are rare in excellent condition and I did not want to spoil it. Somebody else might appreciate it. I even made a loss when I sold it. |
Steve_roberts
Tinkerer
Username: Steve_roberts
Post Number: 9
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 04:50 am: |
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At the weekend I had a look at the problem with a view to trying John's suggestion. Unfortunately, I was unable to see the focussing threads from the rear so couldn't try it. I wondered whether there might be a significant difference in construction between the f1.8 lens which I have and the more usual f2.8, ie with the larger diameter rear element assembly the threads are obscured. Perhaps I should just be patient and let the focussing movement take as long as it wants to, as unlike Reiner's welded lens it does at least still move!
Best wishes,
Steve |
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