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Classic Camera Repair » Archives-2008 » Konica AutoReflex T3 - Meter On/Off Switch « Previous Next »

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Olsoldier
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Username: Olsoldier

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2007

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Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am new at this and will need details. PROBLEM: With fresh batteries I do not get any needle movement or reading. Grip screws on shaft are tight but I do not think the Meter On/Off switch is working. Would appreciate any tips on how to troubleshoot and repair.
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Hovaness
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Username: Hovaness

Post Number: 25
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You have to take the top off and check for voltage from the battery compartment. If the meter doesn't deflect when the switch is in the spring-loaded test position, then the problem is probably a bad connection to the battery. Worst case, you may need to fix the connections to the battery holder, which is a pain because you have to pull off the mirror cage assembly.

First try the obvious: clean the contacts in the battery compartment and check polarity and freshness of the batteries.
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 152
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

One problem with the Konicas is a weak battery connection: it is only attached by 2 molded plastic studs, which under constant pressure from a battery being in the camera are almost guaranteed to break off. Look in the battery box and see if the terminal is loose and flopping around.

Unfortunately, they combined this weak construction with a camera design that requires a major disassembly to repair or replace the battery box. It is by far the worst design detail on the Konica Autoreflex 1-3 series.

If you do need to repair the battery box I can provide sketches for the job - but it is major, you have to remove the whole mirror cage to get it out.
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Rat_factory
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Username: Rat_factory

Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2007

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Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2007 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I just picked up a pristine looking T3, but the meter is dead, even with fresh px675's. I googled common problems on this camera and I think it is the wiring. If you still have those repair notes, I sure could use a copy.
Thanks
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Rogerhull
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Username: Rogerhull

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2008

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Posted on Monday, January 28, 2008 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have the same problem. My T3, according the the people Kits Camera sent it to for repair a few years ago said the light meter needed relaceing and the parts were not available. I believed them but now my son wants to use it (he is an aspireing photographer and likes the T3 along with the too many Hexanon lenses I have for it.) I just don't know if it is worth fixing or should I get a used one on EBay??? (I would reather fix mine. It was my first and only SLR in 1976 and is an old friend)

I am a retired Navy electronices type so miniture repair is not a problem. Finding the scamatices and parts placement is a problem...

Havaness, would your notes help me on this? Do you think it is a wireing problem vice a meter problem? How do I take off the Top and where do I check for the voltage?
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Reborn7
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Username: Reborn7

Post Number: 10
Registered: 11-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 03:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

maybe these notes on Matt Denton's site can help ?

http://mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/konica_auto_t3.html
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Rogerhull
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Username: Rogerhull

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2008

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Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks! :-)
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 493
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 07:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

if you still need notes on it, please email me at [email protected]
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Nickboyd77
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Username: Nickboyd77

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2008

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Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am using my dad's T3 that I used several years ago for a photography class, at which time I know the light meter worked. Now, with fresh zinc-air 1.4V batteries (which I did allow a full hour of air exposure before using) I get nothing from the light meter. I've checked the terminal - still in good shape and the battery box is also very clean. I leave for Paris in a few weeks, and while I'm taking my digital camera I wanted to bring this one as well for some black and white shots around the city. Please help with any suggestions!

~Thank you~
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Gez
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Username: Gez

Post Number: 43
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Monday, December 01, 2008 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Not only does the spring in the battery chamber break loose but corrosion affects the black wire that is soldered to the spring. I suspect acid flux was used.
Removing the front panel on a T3 presents more problems than it does for a T2. I suggest getting a copy of the excellent article written by Larry Lyells of National Camera way back in 1976.

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