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Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 62
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 11:02 am: | 
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I have a really nice condition 101, but yesterday as I looked through the viewfinder it was as though I was looking through a fisheye lens. Apparently one of the viewfinder prisms has come loose and I'll have to remove the top plate. Are there any tricks in removing the top, and should the shutter speed or film speed be set to any particular setting before removing? I'm thinking that the loose viewfinder prism has to be glued back in its proper position. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 92
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 03:24 am: |
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I guess there is somrthing wrong with your camera's eyepiece; there is only one prism in a Min SRT. This link may be of some help: http://bowman.iespana.es/minoling02.html |
Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 63
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 - 03:56 pm: |
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In trying to remove the top of my 101, I've removed the film advance lever, rewind, shutter speed dial, three silver screws, two black screws with plastic trim, but I still cannot get the top off. Does the brass shutter speed dial underneath the dial need to be completely removed as well? See attachment. |
Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 64
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 - 04:17 pm: |
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Figured it out!!! The red indexing mark for mounting the lens actually is a screw which must be removed before the top comes off. Pretty sneaky!!! |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 125
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 - 04:24 pm: |
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On some SRT models there is a small screw under the red dot. Use a small sewing needle to flick the dot, if there isn't a screw visible gently try turning the whole collar. The screws holding the plastic trim should not be removed as the trim comes off with the top. It is best to replace these screws as the captive nuts have a tendency to fall off into the 'works'! |
Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 65
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 - 07:24 pm: |
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Yes, I found that out the hard way! As I look at the top and the plastic trim I now see that they should have remained with the top. However, I did locate one of the brass captive nuts but I'll have to improvise for the other side. My SRT MC II has the red dot with the screw underneath the red dot. The red dot was missing on the 101 which gave me opportunity to visually spot the screwdriver slot and it came right off.
Now to the orignal problem - The inside prism in the viewfinder popped out of the holder which after cleaning it I put back into the proper position and looking through the viewfinder verifyies that was the problem. Now all I have to do is put it all back together. I really appreciate all the input I've received, thanks. |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 126
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 03:34 am: |
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Recementing the metering prisms is easy after all the old canada balsam has been removed. Light-curing glass glue is best but a very thin film of clear epoxy will work. A dry joint will look frosty, but a good bond will be transparent.
BTW, it always seem to be the back prism that works lose, the front ones are rock solid. |
Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 66
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 01:49 pm: |
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Your right, it was the back prism that worked itself out of position. Actually, it snapped back into position and seems to be very tight, to the point that it's difficult to work it loose again. But perhaps I should recement it very lightly just to be safe. |
Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 68
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 05, 2009 - 03:34 pm: |
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Well, I have the 101 working quite well but all of a sudden, the mirror has decided to stay in the upright position when the shutter button is pushed. I know it doesn't feel right when I'm advancing the film and the shutter button isn't working right either. I removed the bottom, compared it with my SRT MCII, and notice that one of the cocking arms isn't cocking properly. I removed the battery chamber to get a better view and noticed a spring had come off and thought that was an easy fix. Reconnected the spring, but it still isn't right. The mirror stays up when the shutter button is depressed, but returns to position when the film is advanced. Anyone have any suggestions? |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 130
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 02:17 am: |
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Is the shutter closing when the mirror is up? Also is the camera delivering a full range of speeds, or are speeds below 1/60 struggling? |
Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 69
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 11:07 am: |
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The shutter moves very slightly but not opening. It does the same at all shutter speeds including "B." The shutter clicks, the mirror goes up, and stays up while the curtains move ever so slightly. I believe I know which of the cocking levers is not cocking - it's the one closest to the lens mount with the long spring, but I don't know of any way of seeing why it's not cocking without removing the entire lens mount, which can be quite an operation. |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 131
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 02:56 am: |
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The problem appears more serious than the usual fix of giving the gear at the bottom of the closing curtain take-up spindle a bit of lube. This gear carries an arm which kicks out the mirror latch.
I suspect the shutter winding gears have got out synch with the gears on top of the wind-on rollers. Not sure how to fix that! But I'm fairly sure the problem has occurred during removal of the top cover. Was the chrome ring around the shutter release button very difficult to remove? If it was, you probably followed the advice given on the Minolta help sites and pushed down very hard with a friction tool?? This is a big mistake as the turning force tends to want to cock the shutter at the same time as the release button is depressed.
As you can guess I have encountered the same problem! Don't force the wind arm as this will probably draw the curtains past their set travel points and then you will have to remove the front panel. That is a LOT of work. Try to access the gearing under the top cover first. |
Harlee
Tinkerer
Username: Harlee
Post Number: 70
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 07:13 pm: |
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Thanks Gez. Actually, the chrome ring around the shutter advance/release came off quite easily with a piece of flat rubber used to unscrew jar caps. But, that's worth a try. Fortunately I have very little invested in this camera, so perhaps the less than five dollar investment is worth the learning experience. Thanks again! |
