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Tgraichen
Tinkerer Username: Tgraichen
Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, January 15, 2010 - 03:03 pm: |
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hello, my first post here. i have two broken olympus om-1 cameras and would like to make a working one out of them. the first one has the - as it looks like very common - problem that the dead foam has started to eat the prism. and the second one has the - as it seems also not uncommon - problem, that if it sits for a while i have to move the wind lever a few times until it is fully wound. directly afterwards it works fine until it sits for a while again. i read - i think in this forum - that this comes from dirt in the winding mechanism and my question is: is it possible to get this solved by cleaning what is accesible by removing the top cover (which i'm familiar with already) or does it require deeper disassembly? in that case i would try to take the fine prism from this camera and install it in the one with the broken prism. is there anything to keep in mind while doing this? my plan is to do the disassembly according to http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/tutorials/FoamRemoval ... are there any imcompatibilities between older and newer om-1 cameras regarding the prisms? a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes from berlin - thomas |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 1042 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, January 15, 2010 - 03:43 pm: |
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This is reachable after removing the top cover. The problem is a pair of little spring-loaded pawls that make up the silent ratchet in the wind lever, if they get dirty and sticky they fail to engage and the lever freewheels. After removing the top cover, you can see these from the front of the camera, just 2 or 3 mm above the top of the chassis casting below the frame counter dial. A couple of drops of lighter fluid on these levers will fix the wind problem. The main thing to watch out for in replacing the prism is to take care not to damage the meter needle. Space is tight, and the needle is delicate. |
Tgraichen
Tinkerer Username: Tgraichen
Post Number: 4 Registered: 01-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2010 - 04:15 am: |
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thanks a lot rick - looks like you saved the first of my two broken om-1 cameras ... i did everything as you described and it looks like things are fine again now - long term testing is still open, but i'm very positive, that it will last. once more lots of thanks! now i'm starting to think about maybe trying to save the other om-1 as well by using a prism from one of the two broken om-2n cameras. are the prisms exchangable between om-1 and om-2n? anyone having any idea about my om-2n problems (see "Olympus OM-2N manual off auto mode switch problem")? just to be sure that there is no chance to bring them back to life before i take the prism from one of them ... all the best wishes - thomas |
Tgraichen
Tinkerer Username: Tgraichen
Post Number: 6 Registered: 01-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 01:58 pm: |
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update: the camera now also survived the long term test - sitting two days unused and still working ... once more a big thanks to rick! never thought that it will be that easy ... if only the om-2n problems (see the two other olympus om threads) would be as easy |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 1044 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 08:33 pm: |
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I think you can swap prisms..... |
Tgraichen
Tinkerer Username: Tgraichen
Post Number: 7 Registered: 01-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 03:04 pm: |
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swapping prisms between the om-2n and the om-1 worked perfectly fine ... so also the second om-1 is working again now ... i decided to give up the om-2n, which was only working in manual mode all the time and to keep the one where the auto mode works (but not the manual one). now i noticed on that om-2n, that the meter reading in the finder is off by about 1 1/2 stop. the actual shutter times seem to be fine (i think they are driven by a different circuit in auto mode), but i would like to also correct the meter display if possible: is there anywhere a potentiometer, adjustment screw or something similar to adjust the needle meter sensistivity? (om-2n) a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes - thomas p.s. the battery is ok and the iso switch has been properly aligned during assembly by the way ... |