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Babarick
Tinkerer
Username: Babarick
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 16, 2010 - 12:45 pm: | 
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I have a Canon FT QL with 55 mm 1.2 lens that has always worked fantastic. This weekend the light meter failed to work and when I did a battery check it showed nothing. I went to the local Battery's Plus and purchased a new Duracell #625 to replace it. Still nothing. I went ahead and used it with flash and the pictures came out great.
I can not do any special settings that would require adjusting the F-stop as it does not register with the light meter.
Any ideas on how to fix this problem. The local camera repair shop wants almost $500 to fix it or will buy it for $50. hmmmm |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 161
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 16, 2010 - 01:17 pm: |
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$500 for repairs? The phrase "highway robbery" comes to mind ...
(Hey; maybe I'm in the wrong business.) |
Finnegan
Tinkerer
Username: Finnegan
Post Number: 28
Registered: 09-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 16, 2010 - 02:31 pm: |
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Either your meter cell went bad or the wiring. But, it may be you should clean the battery compartment and see if that solves the problem first.
If it really needs repair send it to SPTS in D.C. (http://www.spts.com/spts-01.htm).
The other alternative is to buy a handheld exposure meter. |
Babarick
Tinkerer
Username: Babarick
Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 16, 2010 - 08:06 pm: |
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The only problem sending it to DC is I live in Alaska, and the shipping and time would kill me. I will clean the battery compartment and see what Happens. |
Finnegan
Tinkerer
Username: Finnegan
Post Number: 29
Registered: 09-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 05:42 am: |
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Ok, well, you can always buy another FT on eBay.com or from KEH.com for less than the cost of repair. Or try the upgraded model Canon FTb or FTbn.
Let me know if you decide to junk your FT because I could use the lens. |
Donnie_strickland
Tinkerer
Username: Donnie_strickland
Post Number: 82
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 06:52 am: |
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I haven't worked on an FT, so no idea on the meter, but...
You could send it for repair via Priority Mail for $10 or so. Or, you could just buy an external light meter as Finnegan suggests. I use a Sekonic L-208 that can mount in the hotshoe.
$500?? No way. |
Agno3
Tinkerer
Username: Agno3
Post Number: 15
Registered: 07-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 09:06 am: |
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Before you do anything further, clean the battery and the contacts in the camera. Simply rub them with a coarse cloth until they shine bright. Since the battery cover has a brushed finish, just wipe it really well. What you want to do is remove any oxidation. This stuff effectively insulates the battery from the camera and may be all that is wrong.
If you need more cleaning power, use a pencil eraser and then remove the eraser rubbings with the cloth. Pen erasers are more abrasive and shouldn't be needed.
If this doesn't work, then a repair is needed but not a $500 repair. |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 68
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 09:45 am: |
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$500 for repair of this camera, which appears to in working order except the battery (shutter, curtains, x-sync, all the works), is just vulgarly excessive. I agree, it is a highway robbery.
Donnie has given wonderful advice. Try that first. If battery check is failing, it could be just a case of bad contacts. If that doesn't work, then you might have to dig a bit further. |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 270
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 11:21 am: |
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The $500. price is bogus. Repair shops put an outlandish price on things that they don't want to repair. Usually they will send it back as "uneconomical to repair" or "parts unavailable". If you did go for the $500. repair they would just send it out to someplace that actually knows how to fix it and has the parts like SPTS (as Finnegan mentioned). That gives them a really nice profit just for handling the transaction considering how dramatically cheaper SPTS charges for a simple repair like that. |
Babarick
Tinkerer
Username: Babarick
Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 07:21 pm: |
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Done the cleaning with no luck, checked battery for possible low voltage and it checks good both under load and static.
Anyone know how to get deeper into the camera? |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 71
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 11:13 pm: |
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Just to be sure, have you checked if the connections inside the camera (battery check switch perhaps) are actually getting the power with the battery in?
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Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 177
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 03:35 am: |
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The top cover comes off almost the same as an FTb, though there may be a couple of grub screws holding a LH thread locking disk under the advance arm. That was a feature of the early FTb but disappeared in later models. Set the speed knob to 1/1000 and 25asa.
The wires to check are soldered to terminals on the front rewind side. Probably a broken connection, after all the camera left the factory ca. 1967!
Now is a good time to replace the foam cushion under the prism retaining bracket. Degraded foam tends to get under the plastic shield and attack the painted surface eventually causing de-silvering spots. |
Babarick
Tinkerer
Username: Babarick
Post Number: 4
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 12:11 pm: |
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ok, is there a diagram of the body that shows how it comes apart? |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 73
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 12:53 pm: |
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Here are a few instructions from my experience with my FTb. But mind the screws that Gez mentioned, I am not familiar with those.
NB: It is very useful to take pictures before you do each step. Also, it is important that you put aside the parts you take off in a specific order. Both these tips make the re-assembly smooth.
NB: Use the following only as guidelines, not as a specific procedure. I am describing this based on FTb.
NB: You need an appropriate screw driver for the screws. I use a #0 "+" head with the tip shortened using a file. I also use a #0 "=" screw driver that comes with a watch repair kit.
Do the following with the lens unmounted.
1. Remove rewind knob on the top left of the camera. To do this, open the film door normally, block the film cartridge fork with something non-metallic (a carved pencil is wonderful, or the clip of a plastic ball point point) to block the fork and unscrew the rewind knob from the top.
2. Remove the battery and its cover from the left side of the camera.
3. Remove the screws that are in the top cover on the back side, the right hand side and in the front.
4. Remove the shutter speed knob: Set the speed to 1/1000 and the ASA to the lowest. I do this using a pair of pointed forceps. I put the tips of the forceps in the tiny holes in the metallic top of the selector and unscrew that knob. Be very careful if you want to avoid scratching that part. Then remove the washers under it.
6. Remove the advance knob. Use the same pair of forceps to unscrew its flat head. The rest of the assembly comes off from underneath it.
7. Now, I am not familiar with the grup screws that Gez mentioned. So you have to be careful regarding that. Other than that, the top should come off now (it might be a bit difficult to slide it away in the up direction the first time). Mind the wires that may go to the flash contacts.
This just to give you some idea. But please confirm the procedure with somebody who has already opened an FT before.
BTW, would it be too much problem if you take photos along the way and post them somewhere online?
Best of luck. |
Babarick
Tinkerer
Username: Babarick
Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 01:10 pm: |
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Will do, thanks, hope it comes apart as it has never been taken apart since I purchased it back in 1969. |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 178
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 02:14 pm: |
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Use of forceps type tool is OK, but a rubber pad off a furniture leg or similar is better for unscrewing the top of the advance arm, there is then no danger of marking it.
The small pin faced disk holding the shutter knob can be VERY tight as some were glued and screwed. Place a couple of layers of masking tape over it as protection in case the tool slips.
When it comes to reassembly there is plenty in the archive dealing with resetting the metering rack.
If the screen needs a clean now is the time to tackle that. With the securing bracket removed just lift off the prism, but note the 2 paper shims either side of the frame, they centre the prism. Gently wipe the surfaces with lighter fluid, but watch out for the delicate meter needle. |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 74
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 04:05 pm: |
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Totally agree with Gez. I wanted to post the same suggestion, i.e. to do the basic cleaning during this dis-assembly: prism, eye finder lens, focusing screen, etc. |
Babarick
Tinkerer
Username: Babarick
Post Number: 6
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 05:57 pm: |
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I would think a LENS cleaner would be better than lighter fluid? |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 167
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 08:05 pm: |
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You think right. Dunno why anyone would recommend lighter fluid for glass, unless there's something sticky on it. Tends to leave an oily residue. Use lens cleaner or just plain Windex (window cleaner) or equivalent.
The other preferred cleaner for glass is pure acetone. |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 179
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 19, 2010 - 03:35 am: |
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Babarick, please don't use acetone anywhere in a camera!! Acetone will instantly melt the Fresnel screen, these are always made of plastic and sit below the glass correcting lens. Windex or similar is suitable for removing stubborn marks but lighter fluid is safest. Quality lighter fluid such as Ronsonol is pure hexane/heptane and will never leave an oily residue. Sometimes a few drops of deionised water (auto accessories shop) and lighter fluid applied to the ragged end of a rolled up piece of soft facial tissue is best at removing the fine dust that tends to accummulate on internal surfaces after 40+ years, again no residues.
If the surfaces look clean, just leave them alone. |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 168
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 19, 2010 - 11:34 am: |
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I said the other preferred cleaner for glass is acetone. Of course one must be careful using it around any plastic. And not to pick nits or anything, but lighter fluid is naphtha, not hexane (says so right on the container); still good stuff, but it can leave a residue on glass. (Don't believe me? try it sometime.) |
Aphototaker
Tinkerer
Username: Aphototaker
Post Number: 75
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 19, 2010 - 12:39 pm: |
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I cleaned a lens using naphtha few weeks ago. The lens had a tiny spot of fungus in the second element from rear. All the dis-assembly and cleaning left a fingerprint on the glass. I cleaned that off with naphtha. It didn't leave any residue. Maybe I was lucky, but I am sure, just to be safe, one should use a lens cleaner fluid for such purposes. |
