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Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 08:01 pm: | 
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I bought a Yashica Electro 35 GSN and shot several rolls of film. This camera works great in bright light or with Flash, but always underexposes in low light or even slightly dim light conditions.
What could have caused this problem? Thanks in advance for any help. |
Nickon51
Tinkerer
Username: Nickon51
Post Number: 132
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 03:45 am: |
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These are usually one of the most accurate metering systems of that era. What sort of battery do you have fitted to it? The mercury cell is no longer available and there have been some weird and wonderful lashups to get it going. All that is needed is a 6v battery. The voltage difference from the original has negligable effect on timing.
One of the likely culprits could be the timing capacitor on the electronics PCB. They were originally a 2uF electrolytic, but were later replaced by a 2uF tantalum capacitor. What happens with the over/under lights, do they light appropriately? And the battery check lamp? |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 08:40 am: |
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I use a new Duracell 6V 2CR11108 battery.
The light appears to be working correctly in under or over light. The battery check lamp works OK too. The problem is that even when I adjusted the aperture so that the yellow light goes away, pictures taken in low light are underexposed.
After I posted my question last night, I found out that in low light, if I do not use the most widest apertures, but instead use 16, 11, 8, 5.6, the yellow light turns on, and after I pressed and released the shutter, the shutter blades close immediately, and if I pressed the shutter and kept the shutter in pressed position, the shutter blades stay open as long as I do not release the shutter. On a rather curious note, if I use aperture such as 16 or 11 in low light, right before the shutter button is pressed to the bottom, the camera makes some kind of two notes whining sound.
Thank you for the info on timing cap and the questions! |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 89
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 08:57 am: |
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Have you checked the "pad of death". If this rubber cushion has deteriorated, it will mean the slider contacts on the shutter release will be in the wrong position. This results in some very strange problems with the exposure and shutter.
Knowing that this is a very common problem with the Electro 35's, I would check that first.
As far as the whining noise, that seems to be "normal" with this camera during long exposure times. |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 10:49 am: |
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Thanks for mentioning the "pad of death". I will look into this. |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 12:04 pm: |
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Checked the "pad of death", it gives a clear click sound when I press the shutter button. Does this mean that it is still good?
note: the Yashica Guy's web site has some info on "pad of death" and seems to mean that a clear click sound indicates a good pad. |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 90
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 12:19 pm: |
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I'm not sure if you can tell just from the "click". The POD comes into play when the spring returns the shutter release mechanism to its "resting" state, so there should be a muted "thunk" sound when you advance the film (if I remember correctly, I don't have my camera with me).
You may have to visually inspect the POD to see if it is still good. |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 12:36 pm: |
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I have to open up soon or later the camera. I am going to order some tools. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 130
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 09:01 am: |
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With long exposures, the shutter should stay open even after you've released the button. Not sure the POD will cause this problem. I think it's more likely the release-switch rod is out of sdjustment. This is easy to fix so I would try that first. You only need to remove the base plate to get at the adjustment and to be able to see if the latch mechanism is latching correctly. See page 9 of the manual for details. The manual is available on my Scribd site at http://www.scribd.com/doc/19302555/Yashica-Electro-35-Service-Manual |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2010 - 11:44 am: |
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Monopix:
Thanks a bunch for the suggestion and the manual! |
Btgc
Tinkerer
Username: Btgc
Post Number: 30
Registered: 01-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2010 - 02:25 pm: |
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just wanted to say what Monopix already wrote! My camera with replaced POD didn't keep shutter opened in available darkness for long enough before I adjusted mentioned rod. |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 28, 2010 - 09:14 am: |
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I opened up the camera and found only traces of dried glue left in the place where the POD should be. I glue a new pad.
However, I got a new problem now. While I was putting the camera back together, I noticed that a short, about an inch and half long, white wire got disconnected from one the soldered point and is now hanging from the board near the battery test switch. You can see it this picture from someone's blog (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j_TsjziZlq0/R_ZQfj-itYI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/0cf6fS_OIKw/s1600- h/P1080406.JPG). It's the short white wire on top in the left side. Does anyone know where the other end is connected to? |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 28, 2010 - 09:18 am: |
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Another thing I noticed is that when I push down the battery test rod (the little rod that the red battery test button presses against), the battery test light does not light up anymore. |
Michaelz
Tinkerer
Username: Michaelz
Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 02, 2010 - 12:57 pm: |
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Just to give an update. There is just too much wire corrosion in this camera. I gave up soldering and bought broken one from ebay and used parts from both camera to make a working one.
Some tip I got from this experience: one can use two ball point pens and wrap them together with rubber bands and use it as spanner wrench to remove the top cover if the screws are not very tight.
Thanks again to all who posted here. |
