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Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 62
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 09:38 am: | 
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Damping grease is hard to get.
I know, microtools sells it, but for small quatities they ask a fortune.
Who knows a cheaper source anywhere else on this planet?
Does anybody think that heavy duty grease for the differential gear of model race cars can be used as a replacement in helicoils? |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 09:59 am: |
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Damping grease is used in the cue lift of turntables. Usually helicoid grease is thick, heavy with a sort of Vaseline consistency. It is not a good substitute but we have used Lubriplate (white lithium grease) when needed. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 146
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 08:05 pm: |
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Damping grease is designed for it's shear not it's lubricating properties. It maintains a certain feel at a wide range of temperatures and is available in different grades for every particular application.
The problem with using lithium grease is it is a lube, not a dampening grease. The thick visosity will have a dampening effect only because it is too thick for the application but when it gets warm it will not dampen anymore and act more like the lube it was intended to be.
Do a Google on Dampening grease and see other applications n types available. MicroTools is not the only suplier, it's also available in he auto business. |
Steve_s
Tinkerer
Username: Steve_s
Post Number: 157
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 12:28 am: |
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I've never been convinced of the need for a damping grease in this application. Personally, I prefer light lubricating grease. |
Will_ericson
Tinkerer
Username: Will_ericson
Post Number: 12
Registered: 02-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 08:56 am: |
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I'm looking for some too. I have a couple scale focus folder cameras, and a microscope rack that needs it. On the cameras the lens rattles in the helicoid with just regular grease. And the microscope will free-wheel down with gravity with regular grease.
I very much believe in entrepreneurial spirit, but $30 for 15ml of it does seem pricey.
Does anyone have experience with the types Microtools sells? Reading the description doesn't help much. (what is "adjustmnet of delivery level"?) Which of the 3 that they sell would give a nice firm but smooth feel to a scale focus lens typical of the 1950's folders? |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 63
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 11:17 am: |
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Just coincidentally I ran across a new seller on GER flea bay last night and ordered the minimum quantity of what they claim to be heavy duty grease for optomechanical purposes.
It comes in 40g containers at a very reasonable price, less than EUR 10.- I have no idea about how suitable that stuff is or whether the other grease (for finer threads) which they say they will be selling in the near future is better for my purposes.
Once I have got it I will come back and keep everybody informed. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 552
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 07:20 pm: |
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I think you will find it very difficult to find a 'universal' damping grease. If I use the Jena P mount range of lenses to illustrate my point - the heavy duty item sold by Micro-tools gives a fairly firm feel to the 80mm f2.8, but the 180mm f2.8 is almost immovable with the 50mm f4 and 120mm f2.8 lenses exhibiting qualities in between to two extremes. I have found that the light and medium ranges to be far more satisfactory for the 35mm and medium format lenses I have dealt with.
I purchased the Nye damping grease test kit about 4 years ago, this kit was not the one now being sold by Micro-tools at €100, it was much cheaper and had larger quantities of grease in plastic pots.
The heavy product is ideal for microscope racks and slides used in the vertical plane; however, I have a feeling that Harryrag may need the 'soon to be available lighter product' if he wants a light smooth feel to his lenses.
I would add that my problems of larger diameter lenses becoming almost 'solid' when the heavy grade is used, may be down to how I use this product. I always ensure that the the whole surface of the helical is covered by a film of grease - thus there is no chance of metal to metal contact if the grease film should wear thin or be rubbed off. I have seen reference made to instructions that state the greases should be applied as small spots/drops, which are applied at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock on each end of the helical. This means that the moving parts of the helical are held apart by a very small quantity of grease, which may give a satisfactory feel to the focusing action. The only problem with this situation being that as the lens is used, rotation of the focus ring will tend to work the grease all around the surface of the helical threads. I can see this leading to a sloppy focus action, with metal to metal contact being a definite possibility. |
Steve_s
Tinkerer
Username: Steve_s
Post Number: 158
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 23, 2009 - 05:08 am: |
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Some time back I tried Nyogel 795A which was recommended on various forums at the time. This is described by Nye as a 'light damping grease'. Like Glenn I applied enough to ensure the whole thread of the helical was filled, and I found the result much too stiff in every lens I used it in.
I have since seen Nyogel 701 suggested in several places, which does appear from the spec. to be a much lighter grease, though I haven't tried it. I notice that it is now one of the types being sold by Micro-Tools, though it wasn't when I was looking before. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 553
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 23, 2009 - 05:16 pm: |
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Steve,
There does seem to be a problem in relating 'light, medium and heavy' to product numbers and actual performance specs, when you look at the catalogue or purchase from Micro-Tools. The Nye 'Test Kit' as supplied now is based on the 800 series products, but the kit I purchased was based on 600 products I think - cannot be bothered to dig it out to check. It certainly was not the 700 series - I also purchased a tube of 795A at the same time as the kit, because the spec appeared to be different from the kit items. From memory Micro-Tools sold two 700 series products at the time - described as light and heavy grade damping greases for lens helicals.
Having some time on my hands today (you know what they say about idle hands), I have done a bit of experimentation on a Jena 180mm/f2.8 helical. I applied spots of the heaviest grade damping grease I have, using the method outlined in the last paragraph of my last post. If applied all over this grease will almost jam the helical solid, but when applied in eight small spots the focus action was smooth and actually very acceptable. To get round the problem of 'dry' portions of male and female threads, I filled these areas with a synthetic grease which I use on small diameter helicals with great success. ( when used on the 180/2.8 this synthetic gives a very sloppy action) This hybrid approach has produced a very acceptable focusing action, which is ideal for me.
So it is possible to get the action right; however, using or recommending this approach is another thing all together. I have good supplies of two synthetic greases that have proved to be ideal for use on the lenses I need to service. Damping greases are more expensive, and you certainly need more than a couple of products if you service a range of lenses as I do. The only lenses whose focusing action seems to benefit from damping grease are those of large diameter, where the focus ring moves a large mass of optics. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 69
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 01, 2009 - 04:21 am: |
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Glenn's "hybrid approach" is perhaps a solution, how well the different components go together over time is a different kettle of fish, I reckon.
I got the two different products mentioned earlier in this thread from a company branded OSIM seated in Thuringia's Bad Berka near the more popular Weimar. I am quite pleased with the feel of both greases which can be used in a termperature range between 20 degrees below to 120 degrees centigrade. I have used the stiffer one with its stickiness to regrease helicoids and the other one to keep friction small in the sliding shafts of eyepieces in binoclulars.
Compared to the wide range of mineral, lithium or silicone greases I have tried out, all of them being either too hard/soft or unstable in different teperatures, this one is a wee bit too soft in bino threads and hinges. It is, however, almost ideal for middle-sized zoom or SLR lenses or in small diameter lenses with shorter helicoils, I think. Lenses and binos tested after cooling them down were easy to use.
Like so many other things in this business finding the right tool or lube is largely a matter of trial and error, reliable info is as hard to get as detecting a source for the right material. |
Jayd
Tinkerer
Username: Jayd
Post Number: 43
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2009 - 02:20 pm: |
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Is everone here as universally againist silicone and automotive greases as some other forums I have been on ? I have though of using silicone dielectric grease as a heavy grease as it is very stable and very sticky but in the otjher Yahoo group I was warned silicone would ruin a lens: how I don't know unless the though is it either can't be removed or it damages the coating if it gets on the glass. It is possible that many lubricats can not be fully removed from glass ? My experience has been that Castrol Super clean will remove any lubricant saftely when throught rinsed off withing a reasonable amout of time,but I have not used a micro scope to check. That group seems like they maybe against all modern lubricants for some reason?
Jay |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 578
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 18, 2009 - 01:14 pm: |
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Jay,
If you search back through my 'scribblings' on this subject, you will see that I use a silicone grease on small diameter helicals. This grease was originally formulated to grease the 'o' ring fittings in UK potable water systems, but has proved ideal for standard and wide angle lenses used on 35mm cameras.
The grease is stable over a very wide temperature range, and has been completely satisfactory in lenses that have had heavy professional usage. In nearly 10 years use, the grease has not separated or 'gassed out' and can easily be cleaned off coated glass.
Like many other subjects on the internet, there is an awful lot of crap floating around on this topic - much quoting/based on the same very dubious, and technically unsound primary source.
I have seen a number of lens groups, 'supposedly' with coatings damaged by grease/lubricants - in every case the damage was due to the soft coatings being scratched by poor cleaning technique, not chemical attack. |
Bingofuel77
Tinkerer
Username: Bingofuel77
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 06:46 am: |
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Has anyone tried the Tamiya range of greases? There is a three-type pack available from HKong but some of there other greases, especially the 'soft', seem available in this country on Ebay and via model shops. The grease is used on model cars' friction discs or something and there seems to be a 'hard', 'medium' and 'soft'.
I'm in a similar 'boat' re binocular repair.
Other solutions: could some folk get together and buy the grease the other more expensive grease(s) and subdivide the package? Could be a bit tacky re contamination. The 35mm film tubs would be a good container.
Observations: Looking at this 'problem' of special grease from another angle I find it puzzling that anyone having the skill, time and indeed, the quality of lens that's worth overhauling would moan about buying the proper stuff for shoving in the lens' mechanism given that the correct working of the lens - presumably a quality/professional lens - is all and everything??? It's just a thought. As for myself, I am just tinkering about with old binoculars but it could be that a lot of the folk on here are just tinkering about???
Best wishes. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 117
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 10:08 am: |
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Yes, I have. Tamiya model car grease is available not just in the UK but all over Europe, but for the small quantities of their portions I find them a bit pricey here on the continent, and for bino purposes it is not really suitable as you need sticky softer grease along the tubes of the eyepieces but rather stiff grease in their threads and in the focusing thread and the hinge. Porro binos, big and small, are at least as interesting as photo gear. Maybe you know of and can recommend a forum, perhaps similar to this one, that is run by bino enthusiasts? The sites I know of are either for birders or stargazers, and do not cover vintage binoculars a lot. |
Jeongyun
Tinkerer
Username: Jeongyun
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 03:44 pm: |
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I used synthetic brake lube.
It worked for me, but your mileage may vary. |
Francis_otto
Tinkerer
Username: Francis_otto
Post Number: 32
Registered: 12-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 01:54 pm: |
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'Never mind the Mileage: feel the speed!..' |
Jecicapapa
Tinkerer
Username: Jecicapapa
Post Number: 8
Registered: 01-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 - 08:32 pm: |
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I think you will find it very difficult to find a 'universal' damping grease. If I use the Jena P mount range of lenses to illustrate my point - the heavy duty item sold by Micro-tools gives a fairly firm feel to the 80mm f2.8, but the 180mm f2.8 is almost immovable with the 50mm f4 and 120mm f2.8 lenses exhibiting qualities in between to two extremes. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 738
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 03:53 am: |
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They do say that plagiarism (see 22/4/09 above) is the greatest form flattery, and whilst I expect to see the ever increasing incidence in the supposedly 'original' student output that crosses my desk, I did not expect to see it on this forum.
If on the other hand the above post indicates that my findings have been repeated by a second party, then they should say so in no uncertain terms. Confirmation of a technique or product/s is of great benefit to all members, just as is the reporting of any problems found with said technique. As has been said before - this forum is a source of useful and workable solutions that have been tried and tested by its members, unlike some other internet gatherings on the subject. |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 53
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 12:00 pm: |
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I can say with certainty that "jecicapapa" is an unwelcome intruder here, a possible spammer (check out the website they posted earlier, completely unrelated to anything having to do with cameras), but definitely up to some kind of no good, as all they do is copy and paste other people's statements.
I've alerted the "admins" here, but haven't heard anything yet from them. |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 236
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 02:14 pm: |
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Maybe the guy just can't speak English. After all he is from Jiangsu (how many miles from Shanghai did his website say?).
I think he is trying to drum up business for his parts making business but is too shy to say "Hi".  |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 57
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 02:25 pm: |
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Or too stupid. That's my guess.
And before anyone complains that I'm being too harsh, let me just say that if I were to post something on a site in a language foreign to me, I sure as hell would try to learn that language, at least enough so I wouldn't come off as a complete idiot. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 187
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2010 - 08:36 am: |
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Model car dampening grease? I'll have to see if the model shop in my neighborhood has such a thing.... this can be a great find. I'm always looking for alternatives.
Glen, Perhaps he was going to "quote" you by cut n paste but never included his message? It seems the edit feature doesn't work here.
BTW is there a way to include where we are from? It helps to understan the lanugae problems when you can't see or hear the other guy. Some people may sound stupid but it's actually the english.
I'm going to see if we have a signature line to inlcude my location. |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 240
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2010 - 10:45 am: |
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Quote: "BTW is there a way to include where we are from?"
Click on your name. It says you're from NYC, posted 188 times and registered July 17, 2006.
Location data, etc., is optional upon registration but can be updated by clicking "edit profile" in the upper right corner of any page. |
Ozarque
Tinkerer
Username: Ozarque
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 02:39 pm: |
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While not right for all applications, this is neat stuff. Try Super High Impact grease for use on the internal parts of jackhammers, etc, extremely high shear. It is very heavy and behaves like hot mozzarella, except green. It may be too heavy, but it is cheap.
I used it on a Summar to hold the diaphragm iris blades in place during reassembly. It will not migrate, ever, and will hold parts in place while reassembling.
I got if for lubricating the final drive engine output splined shaft of BMW shaft drive motorcycles.
Incidentally, the correct term is damping or damped, not dampening or dampened. |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer
Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 119
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 04, 2010 - 12:37 am: |
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Yes; "dampening" suggests getting your camera wet, something you probably don't want to happen. |
Harryrag
Tinkerer
Username: Harryrag
Post Number: 169
Registered: 05-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 04, 2010 - 07:39 am: |
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Well, the grease I use has definite "dampening characteristcs" and in the long run perhaps also a "cost dampening effect", now where is the wetness those?
It is either damping or dampening, according to the users' intentions and/or the meaning they think the words have that they use and, believe it or not, sometimes it is speakers, resp. posters, who decide about their choice of words, not any one listener or reader. Maybe this helps dampen your puristic linguistic indignation. |
Brianshaw
Tinkerer
Username: Brianshaw
Post Number: 82
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 05, 2010 - 08:52 am: |
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But back on topic: the grease itself is only part of the equation when it comes to damping a helical mechanism. Other factors include the clearances of the mechanism and the amount of grease used. Differences in these will result in different "feels" even when the same density of grease is used.
The terms "heavy, medium, light" are relative terms and have comparative marketing value only. I'll bet if you go look at IEEE or ISO standards, and the engineering data sheets for these products, you'll find... ummm... engineering data that quantifies the damping characteristics.
DISCLOSURE: I am from Los Angeles, speak American English, and have no business agenda implied in this posting. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 194
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 07:58 am: |
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Some info I found that may be interesting reading to keep this going. It seems model cars, microscopes and audio turntable arms use this stuff. But from what I see, NYE is about the most popular supplier of it aside one Japaneese company that has potentiometer damping grease, no specs.
http://www.nyelubricants.com/pdf/DampGrease/DampGrease_Broch_English.pdf
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/indexmag.html?http://www.microscopy-uk.org.u k/mag/artjul04/iwlomo.html
OH and I do believe damping and dampening are both correct terms for reducing vibration as well as wetting.
---------------------------------------
damp·en (dmpn)
v. damp·ened, damp·en·ing, damp·ens
v.tr.
1. To make damp.
2. To deaden, restrain, or depress: "trade moves . . . aimed at dampening protectionist pressures in Congress" (Christian Science Monitor).
3. To soundproof.
v.intr.
To become damp.
-----------------------------------------
English is my number one language although I have not mastered it in my 58yrs of using it... but you get th eidea rgardless. This is nopt a test. |
Ir8d8r
Tinkerer
Username: Ir8d8r
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 04:19 pm: |
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I have always used Dow Corning Silicone High Vacuum Grease as a damping or "Friction" grease on microscopes, cameras, binoculars, Pots, AND RC cars. It is a little heavy for some folks but works very well and is stable and inert. 1 tube will last a lifetime. It is used on laboratory glassware so I do not believe it will harm glass. I met a professional microscope tech who used it also for damping. For what that's worth. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 217
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 07:51 am: |
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I'll have to find my pot of it. When I worked in a Lab we had Corning Hight Temp Vacumm grease, think it's the same stuff? |
Gyurmi
Tinkerer
Username: Gyurmi
Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 06:46 am: |
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The more I read this thread the more this damping grease business seems like a black art.
I purchased the Nyogel 759A, 744, and 701 from MicroTools. From their VERY brief (=unhelpful) description the 795A appeared to be suitable for SLR lens helicoids - "light helical focusing" it said. Tried it on a Minolta 3.5/100, a Canon 1.8/50, and an Industar 2.8/50. After cleaning the old stuff off, and applying a light coat. Now I can barely turn the focusing rings! The damn thing acts like glue. The 701 ("medum metal, general purpose") and 744 ("fine, shutter, plastic-to-plastic", possibly "cams and slides") seem too thin for this purpose, but I might give them a try. I just don't understand, why these guys (I mean, the suppliers) don't provide adequate guidance with their products! Wouldn't it make a business sense? Also, perhaps it would help, if we knew what the lens manufacturers used originally. Anyone has an insight? |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 780
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 06:14 pm: |
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It is pointless blaming the manufacturers of the greases, they cannot possibly know how the greases will perform on ALL lens helicals. As I have stated many times the 759A is far to 'heavy' for use on lenses when used on its own - a few dabs at each end of the helical, with the rest of the thread lubricated with a 'thinner' grease will provide superb damping, if you are prepared to experiment.
Quite frankly only lenses with very large diameter barrels, and focusing cells with a large mass require genuine damping properties in the grease - ie CZ Jana 120 and 180 f2.8 or Canon FD 200 f2.8. Small diameter helicals on 35, 50 100 and 135 lenses can be lubricated with nearly any stable, non gassing light grease - I use a silicone grease that is normally used to lubricate rubber seals on plastic water/drain. Edwards or Dow Corning high vacuum greases are also very suitable - the Edwards product being the lighter of the two. One should note that my sample of Edwards grease is 20 + years old, so might not be representative of present day supplies. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 782
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 07:14 pm: |
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On the point of what the Manufactures used - One can search the original spec sheets, but this is somewhat pointless as it often proves impossible to trace equivalents back to present day availability. In the case of some manufactures, ie Canon, you will find that they used very specific mixes of various grades/types of grease on most of their lens helicals. Even if you find modern equivalents, the stated mix ratios do not work when applied to modern products. Not really surprising - as the actual physical properties are usually only broadly comparable when you actually really get down to the old and new specs. |
Jeffmassey
Tinkerer
Username: Jeffmassey
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 12:13 am: |
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Will this work in lenses? I use it in many other places than gas valves.It has a medium drag feel,and has MoS2 for anti-galling.It does get stiff at cold temps,but is stable to 175 degrees.
http://www.minvalco.com/msds/jnc_y70msds.pdf |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 796
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 01:56 pm: |
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Jeff,
I would not let a 'moly' grease within a thousand miles of any of my lenses/equipment - it's mucky stuff to work with and this is the 'no no' for me, no matter how great the physical properties might be. There are plenty of nice clean, cheap alternatives out there. |
Jayd
Tinkerer
Username: Jayd
Post Number: 78
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 10:48 am: |
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I want to thank Glenn for clearing up the silicone grease situation, I had suspected there were exaggerations like "silicone will never come off".
It is unfortunate the greases we are talking about do not fall in the API standards realm then it is relatively easy to make comparisons, being a specialty I think they are created to the specifications of the ordering manufacturer rather than for public consumption, well that is my best shot.
Jay |
Will_inoue
Tinkerer
Username: Will_inoue
Post Number: 23
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 09:34 pm: |
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I have been using my own recipe of 2 parts synthetic grease and 1 part graphite powder for years now without issues. This works well on small lenses like fixed lens RF's and 50mm prime lenses. The amount of graphite added will vary the viscosity and the stiffness of the focus.
I would like to experiment with the silicone grease that Glenn mentions. Where does one buy that? |
Spdtwn
Tinkerer
Username: Spdtwn
Post Number: 22
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 09:46 pm: |
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For many years I have used ROCOL Kilopoise on the focus movements of lenses and binoculars. The two 'weights' are #0001 & #0136 the latter being the heavier. They come in 50gm tubes and last forever..a little goes along way. |
