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David Nebenzahl
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 09:25 pm: | 
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Well, I sat down at the workbench tonight, hoping to unjam this camera using the advice from the previous discussion, but had, as they say, no joy.
I took off the lens mount, and underneath it the 4 smaller screws I saw, but all these held on were the three light baffles. I can't see any way of getting the mirror box out.
The self-timer is almost certainly wound, which is why the lever moves freely. Is there any way to tell whether or not the shutter is cocked on this camera? Also, what is the function of the lever under the self-timer with three positions marked with an orange "M", a red "L" and a white dot? It's blocked from going over to the "M" position. |
John Farrell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 10:55 pm: |
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The mirror box and camera front are in one piece. To remove, peel the leatherettes off the camera front, and take out the screws securing the front plate. You will need to have the top and bottom covers off when you do this. Leave on the delayed action lever. You will have to take off the diaphragm actuating lever as well (camera bottom.) |
JIM
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 11:09 pm: |
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David-
I picked up a Canon F-1n a week ago. It has the same lever arrangement. According to a Canon manual by Carl Shipman,the lever under the stop down has two functions. When the self timer lever is pushed toward the lens and the other lever moved to L the lens is stopped down and locked in that position. When the lever is moved to the M position,the lens is stopped down,locked and the mirror is locked up. I'm assuming your FTb operates the same way. (maybe?). The F-1n is my first Canon SLR. (Assuming a pellix doesn't truly count).
Hope this helps--if not someone will straighten us both out.
JIM |
Peter Wallage
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 04:19 am: |
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David,
On most Canon SLRs you can tell whether or not the shutter is cocked by trying to move the curtain. Hold the mirror up, and reach round the body of the camera with the thumb and a finger of your other hand to grip the curtain and try *gently* to move it from left to right (looking at the back of the camera). If the shutter isn't cocked you should see the metal lath on the end of the second curtain appear after about a quarter of an inch. If the shutter is cocked, all you'll see is plain curtain.
Peter |
David Nebenzahl
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 01:19 pm: |
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OK, so you need to pull up the leatherette. I've never done this before on a "real" camera (only dealt with old folders with already-peeling coverings), so how do you do this without making a mess? I assume you want to use something thin and sharp, like a palette knife, right? And do you need to peel the whole panel off? Where are these screws?
And I assume I can use something like contact cement to reglue it when I'm done, correct? |
Ed
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 02:59 pm: |
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Yoy'll have to take the top off so you can remove the prism and meter--if you don't you'll damage the meter movement. This also involves removing the shutter speed indicator mechanism that is under the prism. If the shutter is cocked and the selftime wound, you may have broken selftimer main spring. If so, assuming you can't find a replacement, you can get the selftimer to the unwound position and jam it there so it can't be wound. |
John Farrell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 04:04 pm: |
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Remove the leatherette completely - you can reglue it with contact cement. Lift a corner of the leatherette with tweezers, and ease it off - you can use a knife, but be careful not to cut the leatherette. |
John Farrell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 04:08 pm: |
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Thomas Tomosy covers the repair of this camera in "Camera Maintenance and Repair" Book 1. Read that before you dismantle the meter and viewfinder parts. |
David Nebenzahl
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 05:29 pm: |
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Wait a minute--I'm confused. One person says I need to take the mirror box & front of the camera off, while another now says I have to remove the prism and meter. Is this true? I do have the cover off, but I wasn't planning on a complete strip-down of the camera. Keep in mind this is a camera I got from a vendor at the local flea market, who handed it to me and asked me to fix it. I told him I'd charge him $10 if I could fix it, and chalk up the rest to experience. I am not about to run out and buy Tomosy's book, as good as it may be. If it requires this much disassembly, I'm just going to put together what I have and give it back to the guy. |
John Farrell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 06:27 pm: |
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Perhaps you could get Tomosy's book from your local library? There are parts up top you need to remove, to pull the mirror box. |
Ed
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 12:41 pm: |
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You do have to take the top and prism, meter, vf shutter speed indicator out to remove the front panel/mirror box. It is essentially a complete tear down. Worth a lot more than 10.00. You'll get a lot of experience. |
