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Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 01:33 am: | 
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I found an old Japanese Pax camera with a Luminor Anastigmat 1:3.5 lens, rangefinder, knob-wind advance, and a 3-bladed shutter. It just says "Pax", without any other letters or numbers or model designation. Does that mean it's the first model? Are there substantial differences mecanically or optically between the first model and the M series? Can anyone tell me whether it is a triplet or not? I assumed that all 3-element lenses were front-element-focusing, but this one seems to be unit-focusing. Are some triplet lenses unit-focuesed?
I believe I also have a 4-element front-element focusing lens on one of my cameras, the Mamiya 4B. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 04:14 am: |
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First, I also have a PaxM4 camera. There is little information available, maybe due to the fact that many Pax cameras were sold with other designators (I have collected almost half a dozen different model names).
The very first model I have heard of looks similar to a miniature Leica and has two windows for the rangefinder plus one rectangular for the viewfinder, and of course two eyepieces.
All Pax cameras I have heard of have an Mx designator - from M1 to M4, main differences are the arrangement of the rangefinder, advance button/crank and rewind button/crank. The M4 has a single eyepiece bright frame viewfinder/rangefinder, advance crank and rewind crank. These features were introduced by and by after the M1.
The lens is a three-element lens - I have disassembled it completely and the third element is not cemented. But it performs quite well.
There are quite a few cameras with triplet lenses with are unit-focussed. It is possible to design both three- and four-element anastigmats for front cell or unit focussing - there are also some examples of front-element focussing Tessar style lenses, and also versions of the original Tessar with front element focussing. |
Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 06:36 am: |
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Thanks for the info Winfried!
Did the later PaXs have four-element lenses, or were they all triplets? I have seen descriptions of PaXs with the Luminor (like mine) and later ones with a Luna or Color Luna lens.
Mine seems to be the first model you describe, with the two round windows on the back. On the top is engraved only "PaX". On the top plate is the frame counter around the advance knob, the button that releases the film for re-winding, and the shutter release. It does not seem to have a double-exposure prevention mechanism. The shutter (YKK)is cocked with a lever towards the outer edge of the lens, imediately behind the shutter-speed setting ring (b-10-25-50-100-300), much like on my Ansco Speedex's Vario shutter. The shutter release button operates a lever inside between the film and the lens that trips the shutter.
The aperture and the focus are frozen on mine, so I can't test the RF, but I can see a split image through the tiny 3mm diameter round window. Through the round window, I see a round and magnified (or telescoped) image that is less than half of the width of what I can see through the rectangular VF window.
Any specific tips for me before I rip into it? The back lens has spanner-notches, but I don't see how to get the whole lens ass. off of the body in order to clean the focus threads. I don't see any spanner-notches anywhere on the front, and no screws near the lens, so I don't know how to dismantle it from the front. Maybe the ring that says "Luminor Anastigmat" just unscrews? The only screws I see on the front of the camera are four screws on the plate with the distance markings (in feet). |
charlie stobbs
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 08:00 am: |
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I have a Braun Paxette. Is this any relation? |
Jan Dvorak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 11:25 am: |
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Charlie,
A Paxette is a smaller Pax of the female gender...
Just kidding - no relation! The Paxette was made in Germany by Braun Nürnberg (no relation to the Braun of the shaver and appliance fame).
Regards,
Jan |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 11:35 am: |
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Actually, the Paxette is a small Pax... but not a small Yamato Pax. Braun used to manufacture a 6x6 camera called Pax in the very early 50s. Next model was a 35mm camera which consequently was called Paxette. The manufacturer's full name was Carl Braun Kamerawerk Nuernberg.
The appliance company Braun was also involved in the photo business, they made some slide projectors (as did their name brother in Nuernberg), and they also merged with Nizo and made the super 8 Braun-Nizo cameras. The only still camera they ever sold was a 126 cartridge rangefinder (sold under the Nizo label) which actually was made by Balda. |
David Nebenzahl
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 25, 2004 - 12:07 am: |
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Regarding the question about Pax (or should that be "PaX"?) lenses: yes, some of them have 4-element Tessar-type lenses. I have a "Pax-1" like yours, an M2, a M3 and a Pax "Ruby" which is like the M3 but with a little tiny rangefinder window. All of them have the same 3-element Luminor Anastigmat lenses, except the Ruby, which has the 4-element Color Luna (f/2.8). (Actually, the Luminor Anastigmat on the M3 is also f/2.8, while the others are all 3.5.)
The Luminor Anastigmats are decent lenses, but the Color Luna is noticeably better.
So you're ready to delve into the Pax innards, are you? I can help, since I've rebuilt three of mine.
On your camera, the lens assembly is attached by those 4 screws on the front ring. To remove it, you'll also need to loosen the screw that holds the cocking lever to the cocking shaft that goes through to the shutter. I'm pretty sure this is all that holds it together.
It's a fairly easy camera to work on, with a couple of frustrating exceptions. Of course, if your focusing helix isn't frozen solid, as all of mine were, that makes things a hell of a lot easier; I had to inject a lot of lacquer thinner to get it to budge at all.
You ought to pay particular attention to the two brass blocks that ride in the slots in the lens barrel. These should be snug but not too tight; a little grease here will make focusing much smoother.
The shutter is actually pretty easy to completely disassemble and clean, as is the diaphragm. Once you get it back together and adjusted, you'll have one of the cutest li'l rangefinders ever made (and a not-too-shabby picture-taker to boot). |
David Nebenzahl
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 25, 2004 - 12:22 am: |
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After re-reading your posting and looking my PaX over a little more, I have this to add:
Those "spanner notches" in the back are the slots for the brass blocks I mentioned. Are they there? There should be 2 T-shaped blocks that stick into the slots, each with 2 screws. On one of my cameras, one block was broken and I had to fabricate a new one (not too difficult with sheet brass and a little solder: I'm sure Winfried could do it in his sleep with one arm tied behind his back).
The ring on the front with the 4 screws has the focusing threads: actually, these threads only hold the focus ring captive and allow it to turn. The focus ring (the one with the handle that is frozen on your camera) threads into this, and also threads into the much larger helicoid that actually moves the lens in and out. The blocks and slots keep the lens barrel from turning, and force the helicoid to push the barrel in and out.
When you first try to get it back together it's confusing, but after scratching your head a few minutes it'll become obvious how it all goes back together. The one challenge is that you need to reset the lens' focus after reassembly. I used a ground-glass screen and a subject at infinity (telephone poles) and ended up with a camera with very accurate focus, so if I can do it, you can too.
What else? Oh, yeah; be sure to use lots of grease in the winding mechanism (very simple: the winding latch is just a lever that gets pushed by a cam), so the wind will be nice and smooth. Also, take out the shutter's clockwork escapement and soak it in solvent (lighter fluid or similar), then oil all the little shafts very sparingly. All the shutter stuff is easily accessible through the front. The front lens cell unscrews, and there's a thin threaded ring that holds on the front cover plate. Once the cover is off, the shutter is exposed in all its naked glory. |
Jim Brokaw
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 25, 2004 - 01:24 am: |
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I worked on a Pax M3 with a frozen focus, and found that 99% isopropanol alcohol was the best for freeing up the focus helical threads. The grease was some kind of green hardened deposit and was resistant to naptha (Ronsonol) which usually works. I soaked the whole thing submerged in the alcohol for a few days before if freed up enough to unscrew. Another problem I had is that the wind lever appeared cracked, then fell apart as I was removing it. It looks to be a cast pot-metal bit, and was just too fragile. I intend to file one up from aluminum plate, perhaps I can instead persuade Winfried to do this...? |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 25, 2004 - 02:21 am: |
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I'll check on my M4 how difficult it might be to file a lever from scratch. |
Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 26, 2004 - 03:39 am: |
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Howdy, y'all-
Thanks for all the good advice. When I actually get into it, I may come back with more questions. |
Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 30, 2004 - 12:04 pm: |
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Ok, I'm back already!
The shutter and the aperture was stuck, but a little naptha, swabbing, and patient working of the shutter freed them up nicely. The focus is still stuck.
I've got the whole lens/aperture/focus unit off off the body, and now I want to seperate the components of the focus mechanism. How can I take it apart further? I see no nut or ring on the back. Must I begin dissembling the shutter from the front? Is there no way I can clean and re-lube the focus threads without removing or disassembling the actual shutter? I took off the two T-shaped guides, and heated the whole thing up a bit, hoping I could twist and see some movement, but nothing. I realize I could soak the whole thing in solvent, but for me that's a last resort. Tips, anyone? Thanks! |
Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 05:50 am: |
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I'm hoping I can figure this one out without having to learn "the hard way" (by breaking something!).
Focus threads are frozen. I want to dismantle the components but am not sure where to twist or how to apply the force. The focus ring with the knob won't turn anything, just skids on the ring that it grips onto. I'm afraid I'll strip the set screws if I try to make it any tighter. Can I twist out the focus-helix-cylinder from the back? Do I first have to remove the swiveling shutter-release linkage? Any tips on doing that, or (always much harder) getting it back in? There's a screw in there with a square head. Does that de-couple the linkage? But seems to me I ought to be able to unscrew the focus ring off of that cylinder from the back. |
David Nebenzahl
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 09:01 pm: |
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The shutter-cocking lever comes off by removing the square-headed screw. You've got to do this anyway at some point, so you might as well take it off now.
Actually, I found getting that linkage back together to be one of the hardest and most frustrating parts of reassembling the PaX. But with the help of a pair of bent-nose pliers (and a whole lot of cursing) I was able to get it back together. The position of this lever controls the point at which the shutter release button trips the shutter, so it needs to be adjusted correctly by trial and error. (If it's working correctly now, you might want to mark its position before removing it.)
After removing this, you should be able to soak just the back part of the barrel in solvent to free up the focusing threads. It'll come off eventually, don't worry.
You might as well go ahead and strip the shutter down too, as long as you've come this far. It's a pretty simple mechanism, and it works a whole lot better after it's been cleaned and lubed. That part (shutter and aperture) is actually kinda fun to work on. |
Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2004 - 01:29 am: |
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Thanks for the tip- the alcohol did it. I guess naptha doesn't cut the kind of grease used on PaX cameras. I found some of the pink industrial-grade alcohol, soaked the stuck parts overnight, and was able to un-twist them after that.
I cleaned and re-lubed the focus threads with a clear, synthetic grease (I think it's meant for marine applications). I hope it won't separate or bleed.
Now I think I can re-assemble it, but one question first: I did not disassemble the shutter, and hope I don't have to. But the aperture movement is pretty stiff. Is there some way to adjust the friction there? If I have to take apart and clean there, do I get at it from the front or the back? |
Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2004 - 04:57 am: |
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One more question: How do I get the top off? Do I take out the screws that are on the top of the inside of the camera? I've gotten the screw out of the re-wind knob, but it won't budge. Is it supposed to be able to be pulled up when the film is to be re-wound?
My RF image does not move with the spring-loaded lever that rests on the focus helix cylinder, so I guess something needs cleaning or lubricating in there. |
Richard Smith
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2004 - 08:59 am: |
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I have a Pax "Ruby" camera, it needs repair, the focus does not work right and the advance wind lever returns a little slow. Can someone refer me to a repairman. |
A S ART LIPTON
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2004 - 05:03 pm: |
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Please tell me what I have! It is a Pax Ruby camera that is "Brand New" in the box. It has never had a roll of film in it. The leather case shows on the "snap flap" that it may have been opened several times.... The box shows that is old and has had some use, but it is still solid. |
Scott
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 18, 2004 - 02:03 am: |
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I've now restored a PaX (no model number, just "PaX"), with a Luminor Anastigmat lens and rf, as well as a Tower (I believe it's also made by the same company as the Pax -Yamato) with a Color Luna lens, and no rf. The Color Luna is also a 3-element lens. I've gotten some great photos with both of them. They both had frozen focus threads. From my prints, it looks like the Clor Luna MIGHT be slightly better, but only slightly.
A followed the advice of other posters to this forum and had good results using strong alcohol to help loosen the stuck parts. I let them sit over night. Sometimes naptha or heat can help, but on these, alcohol did it. |
Brian
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 02:33 am: |
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Just got a Paxette at a thrift shop. I unscrewed the Knob for winding on film/cocking shutter. Tried to put it back together but it's too tricky. Can anyone help? If need be, I can send photos of what I dissasembled.
Cheers,
Brian |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 04:56 am: |
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First, the Paxette series of cameras has nothing to do with the japanese Pax cameras. Braun of Nuremberg (Germany) also used to make a simple 6x6 camera called Pax. Consequently, his 35mm camera was called Paxette (small Pax).
If it is a knob winding Paxette, the only thing you have to care for is that the bended tap of the cocking slider fits into the curved groove on the bottom side of the knob. If it is a lever winding Paxette, this probably is the most tricky winding lever (probably except for that of early Retinas). I have posted an instruction on this forum long ago, search the archives for the keyword 'paxette'. |
Brian
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, July 05, 2004 - 08:21 pm: |
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Thanks Winfried,
Also, I couldn't find any of this info on Tigin.De |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 05:04 am: |
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Yes, I thought someone posted in on Tigin's forum. I'll try to dig my posting myself:
'Call me a genius, call me a wizard... but I managed to reassemble the advance lever of a Paxette!
So here is my way:
1. Inside the upper part of the advance lever (i.e. the actual lever) there are two concentric 'chambers'. A small leafspring and a ratchet reside in the inner one. In the outer part there is room for the lever return spring.
2. Hook the small leafspring into one of the openings of the wall between the chambers. Although it does not seem to be very important which opening you choose, originally it is hooked in a way that the end of the leafspring is covered by the end of the return spring (see step #3)
3. Hook the return spring, and wind it. Press it down with one finger during winding one turn close to the next one. The return spring should sit flat in its chamber now.
4. Put the small ratchet back into place. It should be pressed towards the center by the leafspring.
5. Put the small saw-tooth cogwheel back into place such that the ratched meets one of the teeth and will move it in the correct direction when turning the advance lever (remember that all parts are bottom up now, so directions are reversed!)
6. Take the big thin washer which separates the upper and the lower part of the advance lever. It has two tabs: one bent downwards rectangular and one protruding over its circumference. Put the bent tap into the 'eyelet' of the return spring.
7. Press the washer firmly against the return spring, and turn it to wind the return spring. When the protruding tab hits against the lever, lift it gently (there is a groove in the washer to make this possible) but keep the main part pressed against the return spring.
8. Wind the return spring by turning the washer until the protruding tab is approx. 90 deg. off the advance lever so that it will approximately fit into the hole of the viewfinder cover when the advance lever is in its rest position.
9. Turn the whole assemby (still keep the washer pressed!!!!) and slip it on the stud of the advance shaft. Put the protruding tab into the hole on the viewfinder cover. The saw-tooth cog wheel will not fit on the quadratic end of the shaft, move it with a small screwdriver until it fits. Now press the upper part of the advance lever (as assembled before) firmly down.
10. Tighten the advance lever screw. It must be rather tight, otherwise you will be able to turn the advance lever forever when the shutter is already cocked.
I hope I will have the opportunity to make some digital shots of this procedure which might be one of the most delicate ones on old german rangefinders.' |
Ringo
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 11:51 am: |
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'Paxette Lever' thread? |
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