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Filip_yordanov
Tinkerer
Username: Filip_yordanov
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2011 - 02:34 am: | 
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Hello,
I'm new here, and i think this is a great forum to find help on camera repair  .
I have searched the board, but couldn't find detailed information about the camera problem at hand.
It is a Nikon FE, new batteries, shutter works correct only at M90 and B. At the electronic speeds the mirror flips up, the shutter opens, but stays opened indefinitely until I return the winding lever (i.e. turn the camera off). The meter needle, when the camera is unlocked, jumps to the A position and stays there, regardless of light intensity. It does the same also when I press the battery check lever and the battery led glows red.
I opened the top of the camera and looked for suspicious connections, mechanical damage, but couldn't find anything. I resoldered most of the wires on the boards on top of the prism, tried moving the potentiometers a bit. I measured the voltage at the meter terminals and it gets about the battery voltage, that's why the needle hits the limit.
I disassembled and cleaned/resoldered some of the wires of the FRE assembly, no change. The resistance between the green and black wires is 20k, green yellow is variable 0-10k, orange to ground is 10k. When the camera is on, the orange wire gets the battery voltage switched to it. There is no voltage at the yellow wire at any time.
Can somebody help me, with a schematic or a proposition about the right resistances/voltages, or is the problem elsewhere?
Thank you! |
Filip_yordanov
Tinkerer
Username: Filip_yordanov
Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2011 - 10:07 am: |
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Here is a picture of the wires I mentioned in the first post, black/ground, green, orange, yellow, on the upper left side of the board on the prism. |
Brianshaw
Tinkerer
Username: Brianshaw
Post Number: 104
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 05:43 pm: |
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I sent you a PM (several, in fact). I have a schematic that I'll send you if you send me a email address. |
Filip_yordanov
Tinkerer
Username: Filip_yordanov
Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 03:43 pm: |
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I couldn't find the cause of the problem, checked everything on the top side of the camera and it functions as I assume it should. Does anybody know if there could be something wrong on the bottom side? I reassembled the camera and tried opening the bottom cover, but two of the screws are stuck. I wouldn't bother opening it, if someone has some information about it. |
Brcamera
Tinkerer
Username: Brcamera
Post Number: 73
Registered: 08-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 07:05 pm: |
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You are most likely not going to find anything under the bottom cover that is causing your issue. In my experience with many FE's, the cause of many problems is the FRE. Check it carefully. It is on a brittle substrate and I have seen very fine hair line cracks, barely visible on the FRE.. |
Filip_yordanov
Tinkerer
Username: Filip_yordanov
Post Number: 4
Registered: 02-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 04:00 am: |
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Hello,
The FRE seems ok to me - turning the iso dial/exp.comp. or sliding the aperture coupling ring all change the resistance between the green and yellow wires between 0 and ~10k (see picture above). It works continuously, not intermittently, and does so every time I tried it. I don't think there are any hairlines or contact issues. How do I check for them, except visually?
One thing I'm still not sure about, is that the yellow wire has always 0V on it, regardless of FRE position or camera meter on/off state.
Do you have any suggestions? |
Dlarsonarts
Tinkerer
Username: Dlarsonarts
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 18, 2011 - 08:45 pm: |
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I had the same problem with my Nikon FE of the mirror sticking up, but no shutter fires. The simple fix: look at the bottom of the camera body, find the small hole near the motor-drive, it has a sliding pin in it. I pushed the pin in as far as possible. That immediately solved my problem. The camera shutter and mirror now work fine. |
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