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Message |
    
Morien Morgan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 03:29 pm: | 
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Recently aquired one of the above in lovely condition except that the framing guides are way out of kilter. I assume that there is an automatic paralax compensation and that something is wrong - any advice?
Morien |
Jan Dvorak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 02:49 pm: |
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Hello Monen,
This is quite a cimmon problem on these - the rangefinder mirror became unglued from its post. You will have to take the top cover off and you will see the problem after removing the light baffle from the top of the rangefinder unit.
The mirror can be re-glued in place using contact cement; when solid in place, I put a dab of epoxy glue on the top edge of the mirror to make the connection more solid.
Next step will be to align the rangefinder - first for infinity, than for vertical alignment. Both adjustment screws are visible when the light baffle is removed from the top of the finder unit. I believe the vertical adjustment screw is accessible from the back of the camera.
Good luck,
Jan |
Morien Morgan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 03:36 pm: |
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Thanks Jan.
Two queries:
Despite the guidelines wandering around freely the rangefinder works and appears pretty damn accurate??
Any tips on loosening the wind on nut. I have not taken the top off many cameras but this nut was quite easy on all of them - on the Yashica it's solid! I've seen a suggestion that a small butane flame will get things moving but I hanen't got one. Would a small soldering iron on the head do the same?
Cheers
Morien |
Jan Dvorak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 06:02 pm: |
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Hi Morien,
Sorry for misspelling your name – the screen fonts were set to small and my eyes are not what they used to be.....
The rangefinder might be accurate, but the mirror will sometimes obscure the rangefinder path and you will not be able to focus. Also, the frame will give you correct framing, with it floating around you have practically no idea of what you are taking a picture of.
The simplest way to remove the nut is to get a proper spanner to fit into the holes in the nut, or use a rubber block (piece of an old inner tube will do the trick too), apply as much pressure as you can and turn anticlockwise. I never had problems removing those and never had to use heat.
Good luck,
Jan |
