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Message |
    
Sphinx167167
Tinkerer
Username: Sphinx167167
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 08:04 pm: | 
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Hello,
I just got an Olympus Pen EE-3 from a 2nd hand store and I opened it for cleaning.
I found that the shutter / light meter and aperture are working well.
But one thing that making me confuse is the aperture is still under controlled by the light meter even operating in manual mode (A mode).
Lets make some examples:
(A)
1. set the aperture to f3.5
2. cover the lens and half-press the shutter
3. the aperture is fully open
(B)
1. set the aperture to f3.5
2. pointing the camera to a light source and half-press the shutter
3. the aperture is not fully open (may be half open, it depends on how strong the light source is)
(C)
1. set the aperture to f3.5
2. cover the lens and half press the shutter
3. the aperture is fully open
4. change the aperture ring to f11
5. the aperture inside the lens is changing too
After I studied how the mechanism working between the light meter and aperture control. Here is my finding:
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In auto mode, the needle in the light meter is moving around.
If the light condition is good:
- the position of the needle will determine the aperture value and the shutter speed. The shutter can be fired.
If the light condition is bad:
- the needle is located at most right side. the red flag will raise up and it makes the shutter cannot be fired.
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In manual mode (A mode), the needle in the light meter is moving around too.
If the light condition is good:
- It works exactly same as auto mode. Aperture will be controlled (I think the shutter speed too) by the needle.
If the light condition is bad:
- the needle is located at most right side and the red flag cannot be raised up (forced by a litter lever). The shutter can be fired with the selected aperture value.
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As a result, I cannot figure out how to avoid the needle controlling the aperture during the manual mode.......
It would be nice, if anyone of you can give me some feedback~~
Thanks a lot~~ |
Olympfix
Tinkerer
Username: Olympfix
Post Number: 43
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2011 - 04:24 pm: |
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Your observations are correct, Sphinx- the manual settings are designed for when you use a manual flash, and have to set a particular aperture and therefore (presumably) in low light when the meter needle will not move. They will not be accurate if you set them in high light. Same with Trips |
Mr_tomcat123
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_tomcat123
Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 01:50 am: |
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Hi there,
I mostly agree with both of you.
The aperture merely sets the "maximum aperture camera could use". If the scene is bright enough, smaller apertures would still be chosen by the camera.
The main difference from "A mode" and "manual mode" is shutter speed:
- in "A mode", shutter will be either 1/200 or 1/40 depending on lighting condition (*please read below*). If too dark, red flag will raise and shutter cannot be fired.
- in "manual mode", shutter will always be 1/40, and can always fire regardless of lighting condition.
***note***
- I do not own a pen... still looking for one... 
- I do however, own a very similar trip 35.
- I believe their meter mechanism should be the same.
- If you search around google, most sites say "A mode" = 1/200 only... personally I think it must be a mistake because Trip 35 will use 1/40
in "A mode" and both cameras are almost identical
- the Pen EE series is a point&shoot camera. You have no real control over it... If you really really want to prevent the needle from controlling the aperture... you might be able to do so by messing with the wires or needle. However, I'm strongly against it.
- one last thing: if you don't already know, the selenium cells around the lens will die over time. Always cover the lens with a cap when not using it to extend the life of those cells. They're almost impossible to replace now.
Have fun shooting! :D |
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