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Aaron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2004 - 08:33 pm: | 
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My Yashica FR-I needs attention in 2 areas, namely a faulty self-timer and a broken aperture indication needle in the viewfinder. I believe the mirror box has to be pulled out in order to work on these problems. Does anyone have experience in removing the mirror housing of this camera please? Do I have to remove the flexible circuit board in order to do this?
Incidentally I have applied lighter fluid through the hole above the self-timer but this has proved to be ineffective. Something is stopping the self-timer from winding up.
Regarding the broken aperture display in the viewfinder, I think the small needle was damaged when the underside of the prism was being cleaned.
Any idea is very much appreciated. Thanks! |
robert
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 11:51 am: |
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The self timer may not require you to remove the mirror box. If it is anything like the TLs, the timer is attached to the metal cover over the left front side of the camera. Remove the leatherette on that side and remove that cover to gain access. |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 05:44 pm: |
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No, the mirror box does not have to be removed to solve these common FR-1 problems. The FR's do not bear any resemblance to earlier Yashicas. They are based on the Contax RTS. You need to remove the top and bottom plates and peel aside both pieces of leatherette on the front. This will expose four screws which hold the front plate (standard) and enable you to address both of the problems. Lift it aside and you will expose the self timer which is attached to the body. Any mechanical problem will probably now be evident. If their is no mechanical problem, a couple of drops of Ronsonol on the mechanism will do the job. The aperature indicator is simply glued to a base which moves along a track via the aperature ring string. It is common for this tiny indicator to fall off. It is somewhere in the camera and should be found if possible. If you cannot find it you will have to fabricate a replacement and glue it on. I have done this several times and it is not the most fun aspect of camera repair as it is a trial and error procedure to get it lined up correctly. But you can do it. To get the top off, use a 5/8 flexiclamp or someting similar to reove the ring around the shutter release. Then just remove all of the screws and the circular nut over the wind. When the top is loose, remove the screw holding the hot shoe electronics and separate the top. Just check back if you need more help. This camera is worth fixing. |
Aaron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 10:02 pm: |
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Many Thanks. I have a few questions. Firstly do I have to remove the self-timer lever, and if so how? Secondly do I have to remove the focussing screen to gain access to the base on which the tiny indicator is glued and what is the shape of this indicator since I have to make one? |
Aaron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2004 - 03:33 am: |
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Further to my questions above, I have proceeded to peel of the leatherette covering on the self-timer lever, removed the screw beneath and some other parts of the self-timer. However I cannot remove a round cover held by two screws to the front plate. I have also removed the four screws holding the front plate but I dare not lift it because I saw pullies and strings on the front plate. Before I proceed further will Mike please throw some light on how to deal with them? Thanks! |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2004 - 11:21 am: |
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The round self timer cover stays with the front standard. The pullies and strings also stay with front standard. They move the missing F-value indicator by a pully which fits into the indicator's sliding base. Just lift the front standard straight forward and then aside and you'll see how it works. At this point you would unsolder the wires attaching the body to the standard if you were going to do further disassembly (like removing the mirror box) but you shouldn't need to do so to fix the indicator. You don't need to remove the focusing screen unless you think it might help you find the missing indicator. Since it's still most likely inside the camera, it would be a good idea to spend some effort looking for it. If you find it, remove the two small screws which hold it's base and lift out. You'll see where they were glued together and just reglue them. When the glue is dry, reinstall the base and pointer carefully and make sure it slides back and forth smoothly. Reinstalling the front standard takes some care as you have to make sure the pully drops back into the indicator base. There is a cutout on the standard which allows you to see to do this. Also, wind the self timer before reinstallation. If you are still having trouble with the self timer, let me know. I have repaired dozens of FR self timers and only found one that was actually defective mechanically. A couple drops of ronsonol usually does the trick. Just wait several hours after you think you have it working and test it again before putting the whole thing back together. |
Aaron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2004 - 01:49 am: |
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Thanks Mike for the detailed explanation. I have now found and put back the little indicator and put the assembly back into the slot. This part is OK. The self timer is giving me some trouble. Ronsonol does not do the trick. It has great difficulty in winding up and releasing. I wish to remove it from the camera and examine it closely. How can I go about to do it? |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2004 - 03:38 pm: |
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Sounds like you are making good progress Aaron. Removing the self-timer is straightforward except for one quirk. It is held in place by an upper and lower screw. Once they are removed, you need to rotate the assembly to get it to clear the air piston damper which obstructs it at the top. There will be a wire connected to the back of the self timer (orange if I remember correctly) which you will need to unsolder if you wish to remove the self timer completely. |
Aaron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 07:59 pm: |
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Thanks Mike for the tips. I am far less lucky than you because the only FR-I I ever open has a faulty self-timer. On close examination, the biggest cog wheel with a hollow brass spindle has a badly worn pivot (upper). That's why when it is wound up it presses against the next cog insteading of turning. I really wonder why Yashica has used brass instead of steel for making the spindle. How do you usually deal with such a situation? Give up? |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 17, 2004 - 08:25 am: |
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Unless you are a skilled watchmaker, it's time to find another self timer. The FR, FR I, and FR II all use the same one. Self timers have brass parts because they are easier (cheaper) to make. Most self timers get only infrequent use so this is rarely a problem. The FR series was the last Yashica SLR to use a mechanical clockwork timer. Subsequent models used electronic timers. |
Aaron
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2004 - 06:29 pm: |
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Thanks. I'll explore making a replacement pivot by making use of the hollow spindle. At the same time I'll watch out for a replacememt.
Aaron |
Bill
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 23, 2004 - 03:51 pm: |
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Has anyone yet come up with a replacement for the sprocket gear on the FR 1's to repair the film counters? Mine has broken as have so many others but mine went in numerous pieces so gluing back togther isn't an option. Anyone been able to find something from another camera or toy or watch etc. that will work? |
Alex
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 03:47 pm: |
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I have a question here not related to the parent post.
I was messing around with my FR-1, when I eh...messed up.
I held up the curtain while it was closing during shutter release. The curtain is fine, but the shutter doesn't release anymore(no action), I believe that a mechanism which clears the shutter to get released was not activated. any help?
Thanks! |
