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Pailes
Tinkerer
Username: Pailes
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 01:24 am: | 
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Hey Everyone,
I just got a Hi-Matic C off a garage sale a few days ago and it was in nice cosmetic condition but unfortunately the light meter doesn't seem to work anymore. With or without battery the metering needle in the VF only moves a bit when I press the shutter halfways but it doesn't indicate any aperture value so I assume it's just some kind of mechanical feedback. Shutter works fine for the two available shutter speeds but without metering aperture seems to always open completely.
I would love to make this one working again but I'm a newbie when it comes to camera repair. Any hints where to start looking for the problem?
For those not familiar with the camera:
It's basically shutter priority with just two shutter speeds (1/30th and 1/250th) but it heavily relies on the metering for correct aperture setting.
Any hints appreciated. |
Pailes
Tinkerer
Username: Pailes
Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 11:31 am: |
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I also started to disassemble the body to see how far I get. It seems that at least one of the soldering joints of the battery compartment is heavily corroded:
http://91.212.85.11/~peter/repair/P1250701.JPG
What would be the next step? |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 354
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 07:46 pm: |
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Replace the wire. The corrosion works it's way completely up the length of it, and it's bound to snap off at the meter end. You may have to open up the front of the camera (peel back the covering) to access a channel that the wire might run in. I've seen that on a Konica C35. Don't be afraid to remove the rangefinder to help in replacing the wire, as it probably needs alignment anyway. Three or four screws is usually the norm for that. And while you are in there, check for any loose metal pieces that have adhered themselves to the meter magnets.
Good luck.
PF |
Pailes
Tinkerer
Username: Pailes
Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 03:18 am: |
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Thank you very much for your answer. I worked my way to the top by removing the top cover and I see similar corrosion on the other end of the blue cable that is connected to the battery compartment:
http://91.212.85.11/~peter/repair/P1250705.JPG
Can you give me some advise on how to treat the soldering joint in order to detach the wire? |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 356
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 07:21 pm: |
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Pailes, usually applying heat with the solder iron will melt the solder and loosen the wire. After that, you can get a solder-sucker (an air bulb with a plastic snoot on it) to remove the old solder, or some copper mesh ribbon to soak up the excess. Then apply a small amount of flux paste before resoldering the new wire. Use a fluxless silver solder if you can find it (the acid core type will eventually ruin the solder joint). Not a lot of heat is needed, usually a 15 watt iron will do. There are some battery powered soldering irons that are perfect for this kind of work, or you can get a plug-in type that is dual range, 15 and 30 watt. Don't apply heat too long to the battery connection, or circuit board, as you stand a chance of melting them.
PF |
