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Message |
    
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 11
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 12:07 pm: | 
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A-1 Canon Q! I found a seal kit on ebay for $17, but wondering if the pin that mirror rests on is supposed to have a rubber sleeve. Mine is metal to metal and seems like thats wrong? Any one know if there should be a small rubber that slides over the pin and if so how thick a tubing wall so I can find/make a replacement?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Light-seal-kit-dampers-PRECISELY-PRECUT-to-fit-your-Cano n-FTb-F-1-EF-A1-AE1-/230892737134?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c247926e#ht_4 971wt_1028 |
Fiftyfifty
Tinkerer
Username: Fiftyfifty
Post Number: 57
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 01:21 am: |
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Hello
If you look on the back of the mirror there should be a very small piece of thin rubber, where the mirror comes in contact with the stop.
The finest supplier of camera seals for many years has been Jon Goodman. Jon is agreat source of information on camera seals, try looking for him on E-bay his tag is "interslice".
Doug |
Bossman
Tinkerer
Username: Bossman
Post Number: 130
Registered: 02-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 07:08 am: |
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No, do not mess with mirror rest.........it will effect your focus. You can find plenty of mirror dampener material on www.Micro-tools.com site at only a few dollars a SHEET! One sheet will last you longer than the camera will! Anyone interested in my time-tested seals material (available at your local fabric store) let me know (www.flcamerarepair.com). Art |
Msiegel
Tinkerer
Username: Msiegel
Post Number: 310
Registered: 03-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 09:55 am: |
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G3bill, Jon Goodman does not sell on Ebay any more IIRC, but he still sells his excellent sealing material. It comes pre-cut for your camera model. You can find his email here:
https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/sealreplacement.html
You will also find loads of re-sealing instructions there. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 1042
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 01:18 pm: |
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NO! NO! NO! The A1 (or any of the A Series for that matter) never came out of the Canon factory with any foam, rubber or any other crap stuck to the mirror holder. The only rubber foam that the A1 mirror touches, is the foam cushion that is attached to the front edge of the focus screen frame. This is there to gently stop the upward moving mirror and stop the mirror assembly slapping into the metal screen framing.
Bill - The eBay seller's advert content indicates that he knows what he is talking about and is using the correct foam (if his kits are cut from the foam he talks about!). I personally use Jon Goodman's kits and think that your seller has jumped on Jon's bandwagon, but I forget the cost of Jon's kits so cannot comment on the $17 the seller wants. I'd rather pay extra for a good quality precut kit, than save a few quid by cutting fiddly small pieces out of larger sheets. It is worth noting that some manufacturers used differing thickness of foam depending on the location of the seal, and a mirror cushion/buffer certainly requires a different foam to that usually specified for rear door or top plate seals.
Art - Cannot say I'm awfully surprised by Nikon's spares policy. Like the building trade there are an awful lot of cowboy 'repair' businesses around these days; however, it is sad that the good are lumped with the rubbish and have to suffer accordingly. |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 15
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 02:17 pm: |
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Thanks all for the great response and info. I was going to agree with you Glenn but after hearing Doug's post I see and can feel the very thin rubber on the underside of mirror frame (maybe 1/32"), nothing to do then, looks intack. Its good to know the mirror foam at top is different than the light seal foam, mines all gone and with new foam might be a little less noise and vibration, I will follow up on the links. Again thanks, Bill |
Msiegel
Tinkerer
Username: Msiegel
Post Number: 311
Registered: 03-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 03:19 am: |
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Bill,
you will be surprised how much noise reduction you will get from installing the mirror damper foam (at least I was when I did it for the first time). When removing the remains of the old foam don't use any solvents as the focusing screens are very delicate and easily ruined that way.
Regards
Martin |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 17
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 12:00 pm: |
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Martin, I will be careful, I've had screens out before and the first I took out in the 80's on the F-1n I damaged. Only hold them by the edges and hold your breath,lol. Think the screen in the A-1 felt like plastic but on the F-1 was glass I'm pretty sure. Good tips, Thanks, Bill
Martin, thats a good one from downunder "too old to rock'n'roll too young to die" LOL |
Fiftyfifty
Tinkerer
Username: Fiftyfifty
Post Number: 58
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 01:47 am: |
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Hello Bill
If you are going to replace the Mirror damper, then I suggest that turn the camera onto its prism, and then remove the small screw that is next to where the foam will go.
If you are careful then the focussing screen and its holder will stay in place and the metal arc that the foam fits on can be removed,and then new foam can be fitted away from the camera.You can hold the screen and its holder in place with a toothpick when you replace the metal arc and new foam.
Doug |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 18
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 05:38 am: |
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Thanks Doug, but I'm going to have to remove the focusing screen cuz think I not only might have put it in front to back last week but have oil on it that seeped from my error in oiling. My aim was off and oiled too close to the screen from top . (I read here in archives that the longer lip on the edge of focusing screen should be to the rear, I might have it switched so will check) All these details
Bill |
Fiftyfifty
Tinkerer
Username: Fiftyfifty
Post Number: 59
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 01:28 am: |
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Hello Bill
If you are going to remove the screen to clean it, us Isopropanol, not lighter fluid. Lighter fluid leaves a film that takes a lot to remove.
I have found that it does not matter which way around the screen goes, there is no difference in its depth.
Doug |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 25
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 09:12 pm: |
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Ok Doug, good thought.
I just ordered the light/seal kit from Jon Goodman so should be able to get things going by the end of week on the A-1 Canon?
I am having trouble getting the focus screen in? It doesnt just drop in I suppose but dont want to force it either, any ideas appreciated. I did ask Glenn but no reply yet, maybe if I heat the holder with a torch
Bill |
Fiftyfifty
Tinkerer
Username: Fiftyfifty
Post Number: 60
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 01:55 am: |
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Hello Bill
With the camera resting on the prism, put the metal surround into the space at the back of the camera ( not with the screen in ) when you have got that located correctly, it will close with out any problem.
Now for the screen, with it the right way around, lift up the metal surround and slide the screen into place.
It will not fit correctly first time, but if you use a toothpick to move it from side to side or push it backwards, you will get it in place.
All a bit fiddly, but not difficult.
Doug |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 27
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 11:16 pm: |
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Ha, the screen is the least of my problems. Thought as long as was cleaning that area I'd clean the clear glass above the screen, bad move! I clean it then drys but little dots left behind and when i wipe it smeers like oil, but cleaned many times and what ever it is wont leave the surface? Think i'l get some 90+ alcohol and if that doesnt work , windex? Then what? The surface of that glass or lens is so smooth everything just beads up?
Regards Bill |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 28
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 04:46 am: |
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Tried cleaning a few more times , guess theres oil still around the rim of that lens bleeding through slowly, oil on metal is like a wick it seems. Does anyone know if thats plastic or glass above the focus screen? Might have to take the top off to clean this sucker. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 1045
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 01:32 pm: |
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From memory all the condenser lenses/beam splitter (for the meter cells) above the screens on my early series A1's are glass - not that I really took that much notice. Washed with water and washing up detergent first, then just dipped the things in Ronsonol, wiped off with a very fine micro fibre cloth and then re-dipped in clean solvent and then dried in a stream of compressed air. Repeated micro fibre stage if surface still marked.
Personally I have never had residue problems from using Ronsonol when solvent naphtha was unavailable. Then again I wouldn't let isopropyl alcohol anywhere near a camera interior.
Unfortunately Bill you have learnt the hard way that the only way to clean the interior optics of a camera body - is to remove them and clean each part individually. If you imagine that the interior of a camera body is somewhat like the interior of a miniature oven. Carried around in hot car glove boxes, exposed to the hot sun etc - all kinds of vapours gas off over time from the plastics, oils and grease etc, found in the interior. These vapours finely condense on the surfaces of the interior components - becoming very visible on polished surfaces when viewed at the correct angle. However this faint deposit does not hinder the use of the viewing system. The only degradation product that does impair the function of the A1, is the white deposit that sometimes can be found on the plastic face of the meter cells. Again an age and heat related happening, a gentle scrape will restore the proper exposure values.
Follow the archive instructions for A1 screen replacement. The position of the 'rails' is the difference between the screen carrier dropping completely shut - ready for securing, and the bloody thing sticking up and jamming. |
G3bill
Tinkerer
Username: G3bill
Post Number: 29
Registered: 12-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 09:03 pm: |
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Well? What can I say, i tried a short cut and didn't prove a good choice. If it had worked would have been surprised with my luck. Just need to make the spanner tool and get the top off. Think i'm going to put this project in a box for a week or so or I'll make a mess of it I think. I should probably check the meter cell anyway and do a good internal cleaning as you say its the only way. After doing this A-1 my newer one I just got should be a snap to remove the screech and do a good cleaning. The newer one is a 4xxxxx ser.no. and like new condition Yes I'll follow the archive instructins. Should be getting Jon's light seal kit in a few days so will be ready to dive in again |
