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Wayne
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 - 05:41 pm: | 
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Can anyone give any help of how to remove the top of an Olympus 35 ED? I'd like to clean the viewfinder which is slightly hazy. I've removed the one screw in the winder end, and removed the winder, and the rewind knob, but the top won't budge. Since there is only one screw in the top, I suspect there must be something else that needs removing. Thanks.
Wayne |
charlie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 - 06:03 pm: |
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Hi Wayne,
As I remember there are 4 little screws holding the hot shoe to the body underneath. You have to pry off the stainles cover to get at the screws. |
Reiner
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2005 - 12:08 am: |
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Leave the ho tshoe untouched. Charlies advice fits to the Minolta Hi-Matic F and not to the Olympus 35 ED. There must be a ring nut around the reweind shaft of the ED. Unscrew this nut and the top will come off. Pay attention to the hot shoe wire. Good luck. |
charlie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2005 - 07:13 am: |
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I found an old ED here. Reiner is correct. Sorry for any extra work. |
Wayne
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2005 - 05:48 pm: |
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Thanks for the tips. I got the top off and the viewfinder cleaned this evening, and it's much clearer. I had missed seeing the ring nut around the rewind shaft, probably because I'm used to how the 35 RC's are made, and this is different. There had to be something there to hold that end of the top cover, as there is no screw on that end. Actually there is no wire connected to the top cover either, as there is a spring steel that makes contact for the hot shoe (then a wire from that to the PC connection), so the top lifts right off freely, a better design than the 35 RC. I got my first pictures back from it today as well, and was very pleased. I was a bit skeptical about this 38/2.8 lens, but it compares very well to the 42/2.8 lens on the 35 RC. Thanks again. Wayne |
reiner
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2005 - 01:08 pm: |
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Concerning the ED I share your opinion. From my point of view it is beautiful and also it is a pleasure to use it. I made very good slides with an ED and I really can not blame the 2.8/38mm-lens. However the lens of the RC is propably slightly better. But the overall design of the ED is fine. The finders of all these small Olys are the best you can get in this class when they are cleaned. Have fun with it. |
Wayne
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2005 - 03:16 pm: |
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I have another question regarding flash sync. The mechanical switch under the edge of the hot shoe obviously sets the camera to the GN flashmatic mode as well as sets the shutter to 1/30th (according to the online manual in this site) when a flash is on the hotshoe. So, if you used the flash on a bracket and connected by the PC sync, the camera will not set to 1/30 or GN flashmatic. Will the flash still sync then at all shutter speeds, which according to the specs goes up to 1/800th? If it does, it seems it would be useful for daytime fill flash.
Thanks, Wayne |
Reiner
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 25, 2005 - 02:48 pm: |
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Interesting question!
I have just tried it. Yes, via the PC connector you should be able to do a daylight fill flash using all shutter speeds. The cord in the PC connector does not influence the shutter speed. A flash in the hot shoe however forced the ED to s slow speed. That is clearly visible |
Wayne
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2005 - 05:30 am: |
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Thanks for the answer. It seemed to me that Olympus must have made the shutter to set at 1/30th for hot-shoe flash sync, not necessarily because it wouldn't sync at the high speeds, but because there would be no other way to stop the auto-only shutter speed from going too slow when using flash in low light situations. It goes down to as slow as about 4 seconds according to the manual and my tests.
Of course the problem now is, even if it syncs at the high shutter speeds, there is no easy way of determining what aperture the camera will set. I wonder if there is some way of knowing what aperture it will set if using a typical sunny day situation where you might want fill-flash. For example, what aperture would it set for 100asa film speed, on a bright sunny day, more or less pointing into the sun. If one knew the aperture it picks for this situation for say 100 and 400 speed film, you could memorize it, and then set the flash accordingly, making a quite useful fill-flash camera. |
