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uli

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Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello,

My old mechanical SLR needs service. Getting it repaired in a lab is much probably going to cost more than its actual value. Moreover, I am also interested in the DIY aspect itself.

Are there any specific guidelines on disassembling it? I mean, whether particular care must be taken while removing some specific part. In my specific case, I need to get to the winding hub, which appears to be stiff due to dirt.

Thanks in advance,
Uli

P.S. Sorry for posting again on the subject, but my previous message (on Fujica ST705) was probably misleading in the subject. General advices may be helpful to me.
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rick oleson

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Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

From your previous post, it sounds as though the film sprocket is not being released for rewinding, and the crank stops after you have taken up the slack in the film. Did you ever manage to get that roll of film rewound and out of the camera?

Try turning the crank with no film in the camera and see if it now turns freely. If it does, the problem is in the rewind-release mechanism. You may be able to reach it by removing the baseplate, it depends on just where the problem has occurred.

If the rewind crank is hard to turn when there is no film, the shaft may be bent or it could possibly just be extremely dirty. You can remove it by unscrewing the knob from the top and pushing the shaft down into the camera. Make sure the back is open and you have some means (tape over the latch is good) of preventing it from closing up on you while the rewind knob is off.

Since this is your first venture into camera repair, and 35mm SLRs are among the most complex of cameras, it would be good to proceed cautiously, disassembling no more than necessary to reach the problem.

rick : ) =
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uli

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Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thank you, Rick.

Winding proceeds regularly and smoothly even with the camera loaded. The rewind crank runs freely with no film. So probably you are right the problem is in the release mechanism rather than in the sprocket itself as I thought.

Do you know if there are available somewhere exploded views on that part, just to get an idea what I could expect to find behind the bottom plate? I guess that those release mechanisms might be similarly realized in various cameras.

Thank you again for your help :o)

Uli
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rick oleson

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Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I don't have any experience specifically with the Fujica, but generally speaking there isn't a whole lot to worry about in removing the baseplate. The rewind-release button may be a loose part, and it might have a little dust-sealing washer around it; you might need to remove the cap from the battery compartment before removing the baseplate.

Inside you'll find the cranks and linkages that connect the wind lever to the shutter for cocking, and a bit of the rewind-release stuff; beyond that it varies from one camera to another.

: ) =
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John Farrell

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Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 - 01:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The Fujica 705 is constructed quite differently to most other brands of SLR. The shutter speed dial does not have to be removed - it comes off with the top plate.(In the 705W the wind lever comes off with the top too..). The shutter assembly/mirror box is removed through the top of the camera body. Take note of the position of the winding links under the bottom plate, as you will have to disconnect them to pull the shutter/mirror assembly. If you note carefully where parts come from, reassembly is straightforward.

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