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Josh Earl

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Posted on Wednesday, August 03, 2005 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks to everyone who answered my question about the film advance on my Zorki 4.

I'm continuing to work on it, and it's nearly in working order.

I ran a roll of ASA 400 color film through it, and the photos seemed dark. I was shooting the slow speeds indoors under florescent lighting. The same settings and lighting conditions on my Nikon D100 produce shots that are one to two stops brighter. (I asked the lab not to apply any exposure compensation.)

Before reading Rick Olsen's warnings about taking apart the slow speed escapement, I had disassembled the mechanism. I'm wondering if increasing the spring tension by one turn is what I need to do. It's at two turns of tension right now.

Also, I'm not sure I have little post on the ring gear (surrounding the shutter speed selector) in the right position. I had to guess, and I set it so that the selector only engages it when I get to 1/60 sec. (When the shutter is uncocked, it's at the 3 o' clock position when the lens is pointed away from your body.)

Thanks for any help you can offer.
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rick

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Posted on Wednesday, August 03, 2005 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

fire it at 1 second and see how long that runs - it should give you an idea if you're WAY off. the slow speed system does just barely kick in at 1/60, and the most critical speed to test is probably 1/15 where a small error in engagement will cause the largest proportional error in the speed. any shots you took at 1/30, or 1/125 or higher, would not be affected by the slow speed system.

: ) =

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