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Tim Smith

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Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Has anyone out there had any experience with removing the top plate of this camera? I have removed the advance and rewind levers, but I think other items need to be removed as well. There is a multiple exposure button and an X-sync socket. Any ideas anyone?
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rick

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Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I haven't disassembled an XR-1; but I have done a KR-10, which I think is the same body. On that, there was a collar around the shutter release button and another around the button next to the ISO scale, and then the shutter speed dial and a few screws.....
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Tim Smith

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Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

They didn't mean it to come off easily did they? FYI the camera I have was bought for £4 with 3 lenses, bag and flash. The camera had been unused since 1990. The ISO lock button, the ME button, the lens bayonet lock pin and the light seals all needed fixing/replacing. They were all easy! The only problem I now have is a dodgy meter switch (operated via the film advance lever). That's why ideally I want the top off. With the advance lever off I was able to scratch about with a needle where the on/off contact meets the lever shaft, which improved things immensly. However changing the shutter speed also drops the meter out occasionally. I guess it's just lack of use and dirt/oxidation on the contact points - maybe it'll improve with use? Here's hoping! It's a nice manual camera though...
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rick oleson

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Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 07:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

i have a sketch from the KR10, i don't know if it would be close enough to be any help. email me if you'd like it.
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tim.smith

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Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 04:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

As usual Rick comes up with the goods! You need to remove:-

Rewind lever (easy)
Film advance lever (not so easy) - once the lever is off you also need to remove the brass outer 'ring/shroud' from the outer edge of the hole in the top plate. Mine took a lot of persuasion to undo.
Shutter speed dial (easy)
The M.E. chrome button off the back of the top plate (easy)
The chrome PC/X-sync socket on left end of the top plate (easy)
The film speed dial (easy)
The chrome film speed dial lock button (easy)

Once off it was an easy fix for me to repair the meter switch, which is why I wanted the top off in the first place!
It's a great camera, fully manual with match needle metering, both aperture and shutter speed visible in the viewfinder, multiple exposure function, depth of field preview and mirror pre-fire on self-timer. It's also Pentax K mount so lots of lenses available.
Thanks for the help Rick!
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tim.smith

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Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 04:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

...missed one other thing:-

Remove the two screws from the front of the prism as well. Go easy with these when undoing and doing up.

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