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Stuckagain

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Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

While working on an old (1953)Firstflex tlr, I found that the focusing units were seized from a light, whiteish green/blue lubrication on the focusing threads. I have managed to loosen the units by using a solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner and using toothpicks to chase the threads BUT, is there an easier way to remove this type of old lubricant? BTW, the solvent that I used was a combination of WD-40 and lighter fluid.
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scott

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Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Of course one might need different solvents for different types of lubricants, but one thing that's worked for me is alcohol. I've found that alcohol will cut some types of hardened grease better than naptha/lighter fluid or acetone on stuck focus threads. It's worked on several early 1950s Japanese and German cameras I've restored. I submerged the whole affected area for a couple of days.

I use the strongest alcohol I can find in the hardware store, which I believe is meant for cleaning, for use in camping stoves, and for lowering the freezing point for the gasoline in a car's gas tank. It's colored pink. I have no idea what to call it. The label just says (in Chinese) "Industrial Use Alcohol". I know auto parts stores in the states sell de-natured alcohol and methanol which mechanics use to clean brake parts. May be worth a try.
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You would have found that the naphtha on its own would have worked quicker in the ultrasonic bath. WD-40 is great for removing thickened grease when you can work/rotate the parts in situ.

I use an ultrasonic bath, but the solvent is a product called Arklone P. This is a non- flammable, halogenated degreasing solvent used for vapour degreasing. Being non-flam I use it warm and use a small solvent recovery set up, as a consequence I still have most of my original 50 litres purchased some years ago.

What you did was probably the easiest and quickest method available for the DIY person - separate components, wipe/scrape off old lube then solvent clean. To remove the old lube without resorting to scraping will require the use of industrial grade degreasers/decarbonisers. These products although very efficient are definitely not suitable for home use on both health and environmental grounds.
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Glenn Middleton

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Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Scott,

Your Chinese Industrial Alcohol could contain a proportion of naphtha ,white spirits, toluene or other industrial solvents. There are some very funny solvents being traded around the world. As for terminology/names taking the UK for example; industrial alcohol is called Industrial Methylated Spirits ( ethyl alcohol + a small amount of methyl alcohol), this is not sold to the public in general. The public buys Methylated Spirits (methyl alcohol + a small amount methyl alcohol, purple dye. Sometimes a bitter taste is added)

De-natured alcohol was originally a blend of of ethyl alcohol and wood alcohol( full of foul tasting terpenes).

Acetone is not a particularly good solvent for oils/greases, but its miscibility with water makes it ideal for home use as a general purpose solvent. Alcohols are also not the best solvents for oil based greases, but as you have found out do work on some helical lubes. I guess that this is due to the fact that even in the 50s camera greases were being blended to supposedly non separating formulations, which were hydrophilic or tended to dry out.

You can use any number of solvents, depending what is available to you at the time. White spirit (turps substitute), paraffin, petrol, toluene and methyl alcohol are just some of the solvents I have seen in print/on the net.

Because of the toxic nature of methyl alcohol I would advise against using that in the home, whilst the flammability of others also raises questions about suitability for home use.
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Ed von

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Posted on Friday, December 30, 2005 - 05:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

In the house paint section of most hardware stores you can find alcohol that is used for shellac based paints.It's usually the cheapest way to buy it.

Ed
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Arnold Harris

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Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2006 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Straight naptha is ubiqutious at hardware stores, can be purchased inexpensively. A one-quart can (Sunnyside Corporation, Wheeling IL; yellow and white can) cost $3.49 at Dorn's Hardware in nearby Madison WI. This means you can afford to dispose of the naptha in which you cleaned your shutter escapement assembly.

Cautions: Naptha contains petroleum distillates. The vapors are explosive as well as flammable, and must not be used near any source of heat or flame. And it is best not to use it indoors under any circumstances, because the vapors are heavier than ambient air and can hide in places where it can cause trouble until the vapors totally dissappate. It contains chemicals that are known to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive harm.

Other than that, good luck with your CLA.

Arnold Harris
Mount Horeb WI

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