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michaelmacfarlane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 09:01 am: | 
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Ooops! I stupidly removed the front element of my Olympus Pen EES-2 without marking infinity. Any help in figuring out how to reinstall it correctly would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 09:52 am: |
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See reply to your post in the Archive. |
michaelmacfarlane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 10:28 am: |
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I could not find anything addressing this problem in the archives. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 04:56 pm: |
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I had assumed that you were just looking for means of holding the shutter open, so that you could check/reset the focus by whatever method you found most suitable. As you got the front element off, the only problem should be re-seating it in the correct start position on the multi start helix threads.
As I stated I have no knowledge of this camera. However if you follow what was said about using a little paper tube to hold the shutter blades open, you should be able to position the front element in the correct position. With between lens shutters you will just have to correctly mark the position of the front cell initially. This is because you will have to remove the cell again to get the paper tube out. Also remember that the tube must be short enough to allow the front cell to screw in to the infinity point.
If you have any specific points that need addressing, perhaps you should post them so that a more knowledgeable person can answer them. |
michaelmacfarlane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 07:06 pm: |
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Thanks for your response. I believe this is a fairly simple problem with hopefully a simple solution. The front element (lens) has to be screwed in exactly the right amount for focus at infinity before the 3 set screws on the ring that locks this element in place can be tightened. I was hoping someone who has dismantled one of these cameras could tell me how far back
...one quarter, one third , one-half approx turn... the front element is turned counter-clockwise away from the point it stops turning clockwise! ie where is infinity located??!! position wise on the front element.?? |
charlie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 05:04 am: |
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You need to set up some kind of a foussing plane on the film rails, ground glass, plain glass with scotch tape, or whatever and aim the camera at a distant object, the moon or whatever and adjust the lens wih the shutter open until you get a sharp image. Do a keyword search (left hand column) for "focus" for more details. |
michaelmacfarlane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 09:09 am: |
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Thanks Charlie. Basically what I need is the factory setting for the front element. I did call Olympus but they would not give me the info. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 09:17 am: |
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Michael,
Read my more detailed reply to your post on the thread in the Archive (2003 Q2), for details on how to check the focus - once you get the lens cell back in.
I think I understand why you are puzzled and unsure how to proceed. Trouble is I am working blind here because I do not know this camera.
So, am I right in thinking that you have only removed the front cell and the actual focus helical is still assembled in the camera? If this is the case, then reassembly is very simple.ie,
Tape the temporary focus screen across the film gate in back of camera.
Set the focus helical/scale to infinity.
Using the paper tube technique described in 2003 Q2 search - hold open the shutter blades.
Carefully screw in front cell, viewing a distant image on the temporary screen at same time. When the distant object is focused you have infinity.
Mark the position of the front cell. Carefully remove cell again, noting number of turns etc.
Remove the paper tube to release the shutter blades.
Carefully replace the cell again so that the positioning marks again coincide. Tighten the three retaining screws.
Job done.
If you have separated the helical the technique is similar, it just takes longer to align the infinity mark with the datum line.
If you are still puzzled, I am sure somebody with an intimate knowledge of your camera will be able to give full instructions.
Glenn. |
michaelmacfarlane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 12:46 pm: |
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Thanks Glenn. I was hoping to avoid applying pressure on the
aperature blades by holding them open with a business card/piece of cardboard.
Surely these front elements where originally factory set identically on each camera at infinity. A repair manual would probably have the exact distance one backs off / rotates counter-clockwise the front element after screwing it in all the way. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 06:56 pm: |
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Contemporary books/pictures indicate that some Japanese manufacturers in the 70s/80s assembled, even fairly simple/cheap lenses, on jigs that utilised the projected image method to calibrate the focus of each camera. The majority of Japanese fixed lens cameras of the 60s through to the 80s had very acceptable focus and produced sharp images.
Today things are very different. In the age of clip together so called small tolerance dimensioned parts, there are thousands of fixed focus digital cameras being produced/sold that are incapable of producing a sharp image on the sensor!
Thus an official repair manual may or may not have the measurement data you require. Have you tried looking for a manual or repair notes? I do not have any details on repair manuals/notes that Olympus produced. If they produced in a similar way to Canon, there could be plenty of information/data - even if it is in Japanese. |
michaelmacfarlane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 04:49 am: |
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Thanks again Glenn. Olympus made over 17 million units of the
Pen series camera. I have searched extensively for repair notes.
No luck yet. No help from Olympus America either which in a way is rather disgraceful. |
Harv
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 10:19 pm: |
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For what it's worth Michael I have three Olympus Trips which I've been in and out of a number of times. I was careful to mark them but also noted that they bottomed out at roughly 1/4 turn past infinity. I also noted that when they did bottom out there was a very faintly scribed line near the 12 o'clock position on the top of the lens mount. |
Henry
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 29, 2006 - 07:11 am: |
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Harv, you have hit upon a very important point. Most of the cameras we get our hands on have been opened before. In fact, you may have read over my Olympus RD article. In it I mention to mark the helix before removing. I never marked it. The mark was already there. So did it come from a previous tinkerer or the factory...no idea.
Regardless of whether I make the mark or is was already there I ALWAYS recheck focus after assembly.
It really is one of the easiest tests to do.
Henry |
michaelmacfarlane
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 29, 2006 - 10:59 am: |
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Very big thanks Harv for that precious info! Henry thanks for your input too. I would guess a factory mark on each front element for reassembling ease. I'd be damn curious to see if there is any reference to such in a bonafide Olympus repair manual. |
