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kyoritsu
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 06:03 pm: | 
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Micro-tools sells a NYOIL shutter oil. Has anyone tried it? How does it compare with WD40, or other light oils? Which is the best oil to use for shutters? |
charlie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 06:12 pm: |
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Anything is better than WD40, except maybe molasses. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 06:57 pm: |
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Nyoil is very good for camera work I have found, but may be too viscous for some non focal plane shutters. I only work on cameras fitted with focal plane shutters, thus cannot comment on it's use on leaf shutters.
Nobody would recommend using WD40 straight from the can on a camera. However, you can get a usable lubricant from the fluid with a little preparation. Very useful in an emergency - I re-lubed a rather sick A1 whilst in the middle of the Atlas Mountains (sadly our Berber guide was unable to direct us to the nearest Micro-Tools), but the camera survived the experience and worked perfectly for rest of the trip. |
Jon Goodman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 09:47 pm: |
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I have said this for years, and I'll say it again...and you all can throw rotten fruit and garbage at me if you wish: If you'll separate WD40 into two layers, the upper layer is a fine light oil suitable for use in watches, cameras, other precision machines--sewing machines, routers, you name it. As with any oil, don't overapply it, and you will be just fine. The paraffin and other junk in WD40 are what you don't need. I'm looking at a pimiento jar full of the stuff I separated maybe 8 or 9 years ago, and it is still light and nice.
Jon |
Dan Mitchell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 11:31 pm: |
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Nyoil will work in leaf shutters also. However, most leaf shutters need very, very, very, little oil. Most can run fine "dry" - but with age they sometimes need a little oil. It seems the older the shutter is the more likely it needs a light lube at the pivot points and bearings. IMHO |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 12:16 am: |
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Remember that 'lubricating a shutter' does NOT mean applying any lubricant on the shutter leaves. The only parts which might need some lubrication are the escapement and selftimer gears (actually I use NyOil), and maybe the speed cams (heat resistant grease or silicone grease).
I have a copy of an old Prontor shutter repair manual and it does NOT mention any lubricants, except for the surface of the speed cam plate (they recommend to apply a very thin layer of grease).
The repair manual for Compur shutters mentions several different special lubricants. Most of them are applied on the lens mount of shutters for interchangeable lenses. A certain lubricant (no specs available) should be applied on the cams of the speed cam disk.
WD40 right off the can is great for maintenance of machines and motors since it will leave a sticky greasy layer which will reduce friction and prevent rust. But for precision stuff this is much too sticky. Keep the WD40 can out of reach (bury it in the yard or something) as long as you work on cameras. |
M Currie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 08:56 am: |
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Now I'm going to have to go out and squirt some WD40 into a jar just to see what happens. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 09:50 am: |
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I'll join you in the stocks Jon! - Separated WD40 is my Lube of choice for the A Series mirror damper squeak. On really heavily used A1s it lasts much longer than Nyoil.
You can speed the separation by placing the jar in the freezer. I draw off the 'supernatant' layer using a large hypo and needle, scrounged from the local horse doctor. |
Will
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 10:00 am: |
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Ok.. How does one separate WD-40 into pure oil? Thanks. :-)
Will |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 10:32 am: |
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If using aerosol can, spray a quantity of liquid into a small, clean, lidded glass jar. Using the plastic pipe in nozzle will keep contents in jar! Place in fridge/freezer and leave to separate. Otherwise just leave on workshop shelf for a few days. Remove the nice clear top layer of oil and place in clean container. If you can get to use a small laboratory centrifuge, the job gets even simpler. - Any chemistry students in the family? |
David Ritchie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 10:53 am: |
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One easy step you can add to what Glenn suggested, is to strain the oil through a paper coffee filter soon after taking it from the frige.This will remove the solids that have formed at low temp. My bottle of strained material is completely clear after sitting at room temp for a few months.I have used this material on some parts which were then kept in a tightly closed container with no formation of fog on the glass or container. |
Will
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2006 - 06:21 am: |
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Thanks Glenn, David - I will give this a try.
Will |
Mike Kovacs
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 04, 2006 - 10:10 am: |
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I used the light fraction of WD-40 to fill in edge separation on a cemented triplet before.
Being a chemistry geek, I centrifuged it but I'm sure it would have settled OK in a day or two just by gravity. |
John Farrell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 05, 2006 - 12:28 am: |
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I use "Singer Sewing Machine" oil. |
BrianShaw
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 10:23 am: |
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(deep sigh) |
Arnold
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 05:09 am: |
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Hi!
I'm a newbie in camera repair but as a watchmaker, I can say tat the very best and finest oils for precision mechanisms are, by far, the Moebius oils, they're used at the 100$ less watches till the 100.000$ plus ones...so tye're quite good..
9XXX series are the syntetic ones, in spite to the ones from animal origin, they can be used without problems on plastic parts ,do not gum with time, they do not evaporate and they mainin an even lubrication for his entire live (about 20 years or more in an hermetically closed mechanism...quite enough, altough maybe less in a camera and I would recommend a service, cleaning and relube-adjustment every five ones)
the standards in the watch industry are the 9010 and 9020, the later one a bit more dense, for higher loads.
9415 is an excelent fabulous oil-grease for escapments (a really delicate point in a watch) it is a grease, so it will not spill out, but at higher pressures (when in contact with other pieces) it become an oil allowing a smooth lubrication, returning to their previous state after this.
8XXX are oils and greases from animal or vegetal origin, the oils I would recommend only on larger mechanisms like the ones found in grandfather and shelf clocks, altough the greases are quite good for use even on the tinyest mechanism of a wristwatch, specially the ones loaded with molybdenium or graphite.
hope this have helped.
http://www.ofrei.com/page246.html |
