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Ethostech
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Username: Ethostech

Post Number: 117
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Thursday, April 16, 2009 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The Nikon EM shutter timing becomes active only when the film counter has reached frame 1. And this is correct on my EM. However the shutter itself does not time in harmony with the metered indication. It appears to be yielding the M90 speed in throught the AUTO setting. Does anyone out there have any service data or information as to the location of the shutter timing components? Or indeed any experience in the solving of this issue?
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Hovaness
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Username: Hovaness

Post Number: 73
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, May 10, 2009 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This problem can be caused by a dirty frame 1 switch. The switch is close to the frame counter dial on the wind side of the camera. A tiny bit of dirt or corrosion can result in the EM always firing at M90. You can clean the contacts (gently) with a bit of tissue soaked in solvent.
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Ethostech
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Username: Ethostech

Post Number: 118
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thankyou Hovaness.
I will investigate the avenue to which you have kindly pointed and for the benefit of others I will report back on this forum.

Your trouble is much appreciated.

Stuartt Willis
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Sauli_särkkä
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Username: Sauli_särkkä

Post Number: 54
Registered: 03-2009

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Posted on Thursday, May 21, 2009 - 06:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Does anyone have notes on removing the top plate of the EM? I have a body that has the exact same problem and I plan on repairing it once I manage to rustle up some time for the project.


-Sale
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Hovaness
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Username: Hovaness

Post Number: 76
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, May 22, 2009 - 07:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The main problem in taking the top off the EM is the retaining collar around the shutter release button. Some EMs have a tiny set-screw in the edge of the wind lever that locks the collar in place, so you must undo that first. The collar is left-hand threaded, so it unscrews clockwise. Because the collar is smooth and tightly fitted, you will probably have to make or buy a special clamp to grip the collar without scraping off the paint.

It is a pity that this simple and elegant camera is so difficult to disassemble. It remains one of my favorite SLRs. Did you know that the EM shutter fires at 1/1000th without batteries? This means even a "dead" EM has two usable manual speeds: 1/90 and 1/1000.
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Paulpacurar
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Username: Paulpacurar

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2010

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Posted on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

in my opinion the main problem in taking the top off is at the ASA dial... there is a small "ring" round that which is quite difficult to take off if you don't have appropriate tools...
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Hankosaurus
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Username: Hankosaurus

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2010

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Posted on Sunday, January 23, 2011 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

"It remains one of my favorite SLRs. Did you know that the EM shutter fires at 1/1000th without batteries? This means even a "dead" EM has two usable manual speeds: 1/90 and 1/1000."

That and B also! I can't help it, but I really like that simple little camera.

My EM's shutter died. It seems to work only at 1/1000th in AE even WITH good batteries and when turned on. On 1/90th it works at 1/90th as far as I can tell. B works. Anyone know what malady causes it to run at only 1/1000th on AE?

Henry in Atlanta
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Hovaness
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Username: Hovaness

Post Number: 86
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I can send you a pdf of the EM service manual, which contains detailed troubleshooting instructions. If you need parts, I have a half dozen old EMs available. It is a sweet little camera, especially if you retrofit a Nikon B3 or K3 focus screen.
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Nmz
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Username: Nmz

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2012

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Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2012 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

@Hovaness: Can you send me a pdf of the EM service manual, which contains detailed troubleshooting instructions. Its my ad.mail: [email protected] . Thank very much.
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Arkadio
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Username: Arkadio

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2013

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Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello everyone, I see this is an old topic but I need the service manual for Nikon EM since I have the same problem with shutter as Ethostech. I'm looking for the free one cause I cannot afford buying it.

It seems that the shutter is always 1/90 sec. no matter if the dial is on m90 or auto position. The lightmeter works excellent so the problem could be in connection between it and shutter mechanism.

Could anyone help me?
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Brcamera
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Username: Brcamera

Post Number: 244
Registered: 08-2010

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Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I can't help with a manual but might be able to help troubleshoot the issue. You say the shutter delivers 1/90 and the meter works fine. Are you sure that the shutter is delivering 1/90? Could it be the highest shutter speed instead? This makes a difference in troubleshooting..
Bill
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Arkadio
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Username: Arkadio

Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2013

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Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for your response. I re-thinked it and cannot be sure if it's 1/90 since it could be 1/1000 as well. The more I think about it, the more probably is 1/1000. The film I got is totally underexposed, I cannot even see the frames besides 4 exceptions. If it was 1/90, the film should be underexposed of 1,5 EV as the meter's indication was usually on 1/30. The negative seems to be underexposed of much more than 1,5 EV so it could be exposed at 1/1000. Developing was proper for sure.

Do you have any suggestions? Let's assume the shutter speed is 1/1000.

I will be able to test it when developing film next time. Then I will surely say what the shutter speed is. I have developer in powder and don't want to dissolve it just to take two frames.

BTW. I have already got the repair manual thanks to Hovaness.
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Brcamera
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Username: Brcamera

Post Number: 245
Registered: 08-2010

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Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If your meter is working,I have a feeling that the shutter is delivering the fastest speed of 1/000 and not 1/90. From my experience, this issue is caused by the memory switch not closing. Yes, there are a few other points that can cause this problem but not so likely as the memory switch so I would check the switch first. You should be able to find it in your repair manual, it is on the side of the mirror box and requires mirror box removal to access the adjustment eccentric.
You can check the switch by this method: find the memory switch connections on the top of the flex board. The red wire should have 3 volts present. Release the shutter on B and hold it open and you should have 3 volts on the second memory switch contact. If not, you need to remove the mirror box and adjust the switch.
Bill
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Jon_goodman
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Username: Jon_goodman

Post Number: 44
Registered: 05-2007

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Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 09:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

More than twice I've found broken flex cables to be the problem. You can bridge over the breaks, but it isn't easy. Look closely at them...especially where they bend.
Jon

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