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Erin Boyd
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 02:26 am: | 
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Hi,
I have a very nice condition Minolta 7s11 (Revue 400 or Vivitar ES are clones from reading the archives)
I have removed the lens plate and front and rear element sets to get access to the shutter and aperture irises from both sides. Quite a straight forward operation.
I have spent a few days pouring liberal amounts of lighter fluid over these blades and working the shutter and aperture ring plus firing the shutter with the lens housing held onto the camera body with a couple of screws, and the top plate and advance lever in place.
I am also mopping up the excess fluid with a fine artists brush to remove the diluted grease from the blades.
The best run so far after leaving the fluid to evaporate for several hours is 250 shutter actuations before the shutter sticks again.
I am getting very tempted to smear some graphite powder to paste form and apply it to both sets of blades, with the fore mentioned artists brush.
Do I just need to exercise some patience and continue along these lines, or is there another area of the lens I should be looking at before taking this drastic step, if so, where? Winfried? Henry? Reiner? or anyone else care to advise? |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 06:36 am: |
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I have to admit I never took the shutter of the Hi-Matic7SII (or rather it's clone, the Revue400SE) completely apart, since it is one of the late 'upside-down' Copal shutters, i.e. it is much more difficult to disassemble it completely. This in some cases is necessary to get a permanent fix for gummed shutter blades.
You should NOT put any graphite paste or powder on the blades. And if we can't keep you from doing this, do it in very minor quantities only. You will find the excess on your lens element surfaces sooner or later.
I had good results with flooding shutter blades with lighter fluid and then release the shutter several times. Then I wipe off the excess fluid and continue to operate the shutter until the blades seem completely dry. It is important to REMOVE the lighter fluid with dissolved grease, letting it dry on the blades will only distribute the grease but will not remove it. After this release-wipe procedure I let the shutter rest for a few days at least, then I check it again at the fastest speed. If there is the slightest sluggishness on the first release (the second will be fine in most cases) I repeat the procedure. |
Erin Boyd
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 07:06 am: |
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O.K. I have discovered more. the shutter itself is working fine. When you take the lens plate off the body the complete system to cock and fire the shutter comes with it.
At the very bottom of the back of the lens plate is a sliding gadget that picks up a tang protruding from the inside the lens. Moving this sliding gadget and the tang across the full range of its movement cocks the shutter. This can be done manually with a small screwdriver and the shutter fires with the rod the shutter button sits on.
Moving the slider device or the protuding tang to cock the shutter takes considerable effort and it feels rough and binds, so it seems as though there is some foreign substance or lack of in the linkage inside the lens that cocks the shutter.
Now it is getting very technical. Any advice how maybe I can access that place without stuffing the lens, looks like some fiddly little circlips and linkages are involved |
Kiron Kid
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 01:08 pm: |
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I too, just received a Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII. In my case, the aperture is stuck on f/16. Shutter is working fine. I'm too much a chicken to dive into it. Anyone else ever fix this problem. It looks to be exactly like my Viv ES,Revue SE, etc.
Thanks
KK |
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