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Message |
Carlos
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 02, 2004 - 03:01 am: |
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Due to a stupidly wrong placement of the batteries in my md12, now when I switch the driver on, the camera fires a shot automatically and then it won´t work any more. Can anyone help me? I´d like to know if this a serious problem or if on the contrary, it can be easily fixed. I find it incredible that only by setting the batteries wrong can cause such and expensive and reliable tool to break down like that. Help Please. |
David Ritchie
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 02, 2004 - 07:28 pm: |
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Carlos..I do not know which camera you are using, but I had a similar confusing thing like this happen. I was using a Nikon FE and the problem turned out to be a bad battery in the camera itself. I do not recall if I tried to use the manual setting or not, but I do remember that the camera battery was just weak rather than completely dead. I too was using the MD12.Hope this info will help. |
Carlos
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2004 - 02:07 am: |
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Thanks for your help, David. I´d never have thought of that, but come to think of it, it makes a lot of sense. I bought my camera & drive (fm2+md12) second-hand recently and I never changed the camera´s battery. I´ll try it as soon as I get home and let you know the outcome of it. |
David Ritchie
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2004 - 06:55 pm: |
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One other thought Carlos. If my memory serves me correctly, the film advance lever on the camera must remain in the park, off, position in order for the MD12 to work. Other than this, I think that the cleaing of all terminals and contacts would be the next step. I suggest a swab dampened in alcohol |
Russ
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2004 - 11:00 pm: |
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carlos Dave Ritchie is correct. Do not use the film advance lever, while the MD-12 is on. If you do, the two competing circuits cancel one another out. When this happens, remove the MD-12, and short out the four contact points with something metallic (coins, key, etc. Just be sure not to have both power supplies on at the same time. This is a very common problem with the MD-12 and the FM, Fe and FE-2's. It's easy to forget, and "lock up" the system. I've done it dozen's of times. Still do, on occasion. Russ (Kiron Kid) |
Carlos
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 03:05 am: |
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thank you guys, I´ve changed the battery in my camera with no positive results. I have to try to short out the contact points but I have no high hopes. When I turn the drive on, it makes a short buzzing sound and you can clearly feel it vibrate as well. I think it´s really busted. Would you advise me to open it up and fiddle around with it? or shall I give up and send it to the repair shop?. Thanks again. |
Russ
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2004 - 08:09 am: |
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Carlos The buzzing is normal. Before you re-attach the MD-12. Trip the cameras shutter, and do not advance it to the next frame before mounting the MD-12, back onto the camera. Better yet, give me your home phone #. I'll call you. Russ 360-256-4484 |
Carlos
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2004 - 09:24 am: |
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Russ, I´ve tried everything but is useless. If I press a coin against the metal contacts it fires a shot and then it does the buzzing again, if I do this repeatedly, quickly, it keep firing until eventually jams and all I have to do is lightly push the rotating device to unjam it, but the shutter release button doesnt work at all. Thanks anyway for your help. |