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Jon Flanders
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 09:45 pm: | 
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I picked up another GS for $5.53 on EBay which was supposedly broken. Actually it was a rewind lever that was "stuck" until you pressed the button at the bottom of the camera and "unstuck" it and removed the film that was still in the camera. The camera is in mint condition, but it didn't have the clunk, and sure enough, once I installed a battery the shutter only had two speeds, B and fast.
It was "the pad of death" problem. I have tried to fix this once before, with the results being a parts camera. This time I decided to try the "not recommended" route of going through the top of the camera without removing the front lens assembly.
You can just see the arm that the pad is glued to above the edge of the camera once the top is removed. The pad faces you.
I was able to clean most of the glue left from the missing pad with an exacto knife. I then stuck a pin into the side of the new pad I made up and gingerly worked it into position. I pushed up on it with the knife and then turned the camera upside down to let the glue dry.
Result? A glorious clunk, and the shutter opens and closes just as working cameras do at various f stops. I still need to run a roll of film through it, but I think I have had success with this method.
One question I have, is it possible for an Electro to be working correctly without the clunk? I have one that seems to be OK but is clunkless. I think I will check it when I have a chance to see if the pad is there.
Jon Flanders |
Jackson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 01:21 am: |
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Sorry, I don't have an answer to your question. My working Electros all clunk, and those that don't, don't. I'm wondering about the parts unit. What went wrong during your previous attempt? I have one that needs this repair; it's mint cosmetically, but there's no clunk, so the shutter doesn't latch and the lights are goofed up. If you wouldn't mind describing the steps, maybe I can learn something from your mistake. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 04:30 am: |
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Depending on the pad material the clunk will be more or less audible. The original material is quite hard so the clunk is rather strong. I once replaced it with industrial grade sheet rubber material resulting in a hardly audible clunk.
It is possible that the shutter will release properly without the pad, but in most cases the lightmeter will not work correctly. You can easily check this by operating the camera in low light so that the yellow indicator comes up. It should switch off just before the shutter is released mechanically. |
Jon Flanders
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 02:26 pm: |
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On the first attempt I took the front lens assembly off. I had a terrible time with the plastic fabric, it got fairly nicked up. I was able to replace the pad but somehow I messed up the arm that the pad is fixed to, so that the shutter button lost its return "spring." And then there were all those wires that get in the way. And the wire I mistakenly cut and had to repair.
You have to line up the shutter button assembly, the rangefinder and a small rod that I think connects the focus to the camera in some way. All in all a pretty messy procedure in my first attempt.
I have to say that I much prefer the "microsurgery " of going thru the top as I just did.
I did use a fairly hard material for the pad, so that would explain the loud clunk on this camera now.
Jon Flanders |
Jackson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2004 - 02:56 pm: |
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Jon, thanks for that description. After removing the beamsplitter from my Lynx 5000e last night (to use in a different camera), I pulled the lens assembly as well. I just wanted to see what the procedure might be like. My results weren't substantially better than yours, and at the very least, new leatherette would be required if I were going to restore the camera. I have at least one Electro that is definitely useful only for parts. I think I'll attempt a practice run first, using your "microsurgery" procedure. Thanks again! |
Jeff Simpson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 10:25 am: |
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I read somewhere recently that the shutter button should stay down or depressed until the film is wound to the next frame. If it pops up after the exposure is made, it's an indication of a problem with the shutter. Does anyone know if this is correct? All of the "Electros" I've seen pop up after making an exposure, so??
Also, it seems from the discussion that there should be a slight "clunk" when winding to the next frame, and that if there is no click or clunk you have a problem, correct? |
Jon Flanders
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 09:16 pm: |
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On my Electros, the button pops right back up. This is not an indication of a problem. And yes, generally a clunk is a good thing. Although I have one that doesn't, but seems OK
Jon Flanders |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 07:28 am: |
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The upper part of the shutter release system should always pop up after releasing pressure on the button. It's different with the lower (invisi ble) part (which is linked to the button via that pad), it should be latched by a latch under the bottom plate and released when cocking the shutter again, hence the clunk. |
pherdi
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 08:11 pm: |
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Hi. I also repaired one of my yashica GSN's no-clunk problem. By the "microsurgery" top-access method. It was quite easy, actually.
However, i have a different question: how do you remove the ring that rotates for focusing the lens? I have a second yashica that apparently has some sand inside the focusing helical, because sometimes it rotates very hard; i can feel there's something in the way. It was quite dirty when i got it.
I did remove the front lens group (retaining ring, lens group, little yellow ring, aperture ring/top of shutter box) so the shutter was already visible. Still couldn't find screws or such, to disassemble the focusing.
Anybody?
thanks |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 04:09 am: |
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The focus ring is attached to the lens barrel with some set screws you can see from outside. However, I don't think the ring can be separated very easily, I think you will have to separate the lens from the camera body.
If there are particals in the helical thread, you even have to go in deeper and separate the helical thread. This is also possible after separating the lens barrel only. |
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