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Kirill Sapelkin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 21, 2005 - 10:49 pm: | 
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Hello,
I'm trying to take the top cover off a Nikon FG. The rewind knob does not seem to be the kind that unscrews. I tried, using more force than I thought right.
The Nikon FG Repair Manual isn't clear about the disassembly. Seems their's is a screw off.
Grateful for any hints. |
Ed
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 10:29 am: |
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If my memory serves me I think it is a screw-off--rh thread. Also recall that the knob maybe plastic and sometimes force required may cause the large screw visible under the lever, to break the knob. If possible, use something that would go around the knob and contain it while turning. |
Kirill Sapelkin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 12:40 pm: |
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Thanks Ed,
I got it to turn about 3-4 degrees then it stopped dead.
So the 'large screw' is male thread and the plastic female. Is that right?
Kirill |
rick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 01:49 pm: |
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My Nikon EM notes indicate a regular right-hand thread - i'd think the FG would be the same. My sketch seems to show the lower shaft (which is metal, at least in the EM) as the female thread, and the screw extending down through the knob as the male. I'm sorry, I don't have a camera here to look at so i'm just going by my old sketches... and it's possible that the FG could be different from the EM, but it seems unlikely since they are the same chassis. Just to be sure, before forcing it further, look for a set screw under the flip-out crank in the knob.....
 = |
Ed
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 03:14 pm: |
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FG is same as EM--no plastic threads or set screws. If it requires that much force you may want grip across the rewind forks instead of putting something between them--may break off a fork.Never saw one so tight I couldn't get it off. It might be worth while pulling up the rewind knob so that you could put a DROP of corrosion solvent at junction of rewind shaft and bottom of knob. Never had to do this, but always something new. Large screw you see under lever is the one that goes into rewind shaft--caution again about breaking knob. |
Roland F. Harriston
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 03:33 pm: |
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I just tried 3 different Nikon EM's. They have the same very fragile rewind knob assembly as the FG.
I don't think there was ever a set screw on either the EM or the FG.
Two of the knobs unscrewed easily by placing a
screwdriver shank in the slot in the film rewind spindle (the usual method) and turning the rewind knob counterclockwise. NEVER try to remove the knob by applying torque to the metal fold-out winding crank...you will crack the plastic body.
The third rewind knob-crank assembly would not
budge. I could get about a quarter-turn in the clockwise direction, then a quarter-turn in the
counterclock direction, but I was unable to remove the assembly. I applied quite a bit of torque in the counterclock direction but the assembly would not budge.
Upon close inspection, all three assemblies seem to be identical, and it seems to me that I did remove all three assemblies when I repaired these cameras several years ago.
A puzzlement.
I think the shaft is made of a steel alloy while the threaded bushing imbedded into the plastic body of the rewind knob body might be a brass alloy. If this is a valid assumption, it could be significant insofar as binding is concerned.
I tried lightly tapping on the top of the screw as it is seen under the fold-out rewind crank, but I could not relieve the tension.
I have, in the past broken a few of these poorly
designed assemblies, so I decided not the persue
the issue since all three cameras are now in
A-One Plus operating condition.
Perhaps applying a drop of iso alcohol and blowing on it to evaporate it quickly thus causing a contraction differential to occur between the two dissimiliar metals might break the tension. A ice cube or some of that circuit
cooler the electronic geeks use might do the same thing. Just a WAG.
Roland F. Harriston |
Kirill Sapelkin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 06:40 pm: |
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Thanks All.
The Nikon FG Repair Manual mentions some 'adhesive' on the top of the rewind shaft.
I'll try 99% isopropyl on it and hope for the best.
In the worst case, it'll be another $28.00 mistake.
Regards. |
Kirill Sapelkin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 23, 2005 - 06:06 pm: |
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It came off!
After soaking for a while in corrosion solvent, I put a support (a flat plane iron in a vise) under the rewind fork (between the blades), had another person hold the camera so that any blows would be taken on the support and not on the camera body, and tapped on the screw/bushing with a drift and hammer.
As the rewind shaft was supported, I was able to tap with vigor.
5 or 6 taps and it came off with no force.
Now on to the circuit troubleshooting.... |
