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Clayton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2005 - 07:50 pm: | 
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Going slow here. I think my goal is to unstick the shutter. So far I have found the tools and figured out how to take off the top and bottom. Now I am wondering how to take off the lens (wondering too if I will need to do that to access the shutter?). Up to now it is not obivious to me how the lens comes off. I read somewhere a 1.4 V zinc hearing aid battery will work in the camera. Does anybody know for sure. I'm serious here. I really want this little camera to work. |
Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 04:26 am: |
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Hi Clayton,
As far as the battery is concerned, the hearing aid batteries work and fit perfectly. Just don't leave them in too long if you aren't using the camera as I understand they can leak if they go flat. I haven't had to attack my shutter so I can't really help much with that. I have seen a site on the net somewhere that deals with this I think, so have a good google around and see what you can find
Regards, Howard |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 04:46 am: |
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If I remember it correctly the lens barrel comes off together with the front assembly. The assembly is held to the body by four screws under the leatherette. The C35 does not have a classic leaf shutter design (in many cases a leaf shutter is held to the lens plate by a ring nut) but a shutter mechanism which is cluttered all over the rear of the front plate.
Sometimes the hairspring of the latch of the cocking lever (protruding from the bottom of that plate and actuated by a slider under the bottom plate) gets out of place. Then the turnable end of the latch does not return and the shutter will not be cocked although the film is wound and the double-wind latch is reset.
The shutter leaves are actuated by a kind of flywheel mechanism. The flywheel is not directly coupled to the levers which actuate the shutter leaves. The levers are designed to run against a stop which usually is set by the auto exposure mechanism. The wider the lever is allowed to travel, the wider (and slower) the leaves will open. If you want to check this, cock the shutter by moving the above-mentioned cocking lever and fire it by pressing the shutter release shaft, and block the flywheel with your fingers. Then gently release it, the blades should open at least a bit when the flywheel turns. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 06:41 am: |
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One addendum: the flywheel itself will not turn when you block it with your fingers, it is kicked (started) only by the shutter main spring. So if you block it with your finger it will only turn a little bit. To open the shutter blades you have to turn the flywheel manually after firing the shutter. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 09:38 am: |
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Maybe this note gives you courage to keep on trying: a C35 was one of the first cameras I repaired, and, of course, it did not work when reassembled. This was because the black cables/wires (all of them) were still there, but inside the copper wires had gone bad, maybe because of chemically aggressive components of the insulation. Meanwhile I have repaired several C35s, and about every second had this problem. Replacement is easy.
When disassembling the camera there is one thing that deserves extra care, because it is so fragile and easily damaged: the exposure meter, and as it is the "heart" of the automatic feature, it has to be in perfect state. If you accidentally mess it up, there are plenty more in junk cameras on the net, but unfortunately replacement is not so easy, so be careful, enjoy your repair, and good luck! |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 02:02 pm: |
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What you describe sometimes is referred to as 'black wire corrosion'. You will find it in more or less any camera, especially those running on mercury cells. I once received a camera (Agfa Selectronic S) where corrosion had crawled through the wires from the battery chamber all over to the electronic assembly inside the lens barrel (the solder points and copper tracks of that assembly were rotten, too). Strange enough, this Agfa camera did not need mercury cells, maybe previous owners inserted them.
However, as mentioned, you will find it inside many cameras, and the best cure is to replace the wires concerned as far as possible, as it is sometimes almost impossible to solder such a corroded wire, and even if you manage to, pretty often it will break again sooner or later.
I don't think that it is a chemical reaction with the insulation material - I have seen many wires which have been in operation for decades without any degradation. It mostly seems to happen on devices operated with mercury cells, and it is always the negative wire which is concerned, you will hardly find this on the positive wire. |
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