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Dennis Smith
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 10:19 pm: | 
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Help! I have tried cane tips, rubber bands, rubber plugs, etc. no luck. It is a left handed thread, isn't it? ( I hope) Any other tricks? Thanks, Dennis Smith |
Joseph C.
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 11:47 pm: |
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My QL 17 is not a reverse thread, and i removed it by useing a piece of masking tape as a "gripper" good luck |
rick oleson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2005 - 07:07 am: |
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One other possibility: Stick a piece of 3M double-sided foam adhesive tape on the end of the rubber plug. Also, I don't recall if it's necessary in the Canonet or not, but you might need to cock the shutter first so the button is free to retract out of the way as you press down onto the ring.
rick : ) = |
Ezio
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2005 - 08:13 am: |
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No cocking the shutter is required. Also, just to be on the safe side and please don't get upset: I assume you have realised that the thing to be unscrewed (by anti-clockwise rotation) is the small crome ring around the shutter button, which is what holds the whole thing in place? It is relatively easy to mistakenly grab this ring together with the lever below it, which of course cannot unscrew and it rather lifted after the ring has been removed. Also: mark an remember the position of the various rings and wiskers between the ring, the lever and the camera body, because these need to the reassembled in the same order to maintain smooth functioning. |
Jan Dvorak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2005 - 11:07 am: |
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As an addendum to Rick's post - you also have to set the aperture ring to manual. Make sure it is off the 'A' setting - that way the the shutter release will go all the way down and you will be able to apply adequate pressure to be on the chrome ring. And yes, the shutter should be cocked to prevent the ring from moving.
I have taken off literally dozens of these, without any difficulty, using a piece of an inner tube (rubber). Press it down with a thumb and unscrew it - it is that simple.
Good luck,
Jan |
Dennis Smith
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2005 - 03:01 pm: |
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Thanks everyone, I got it. A little piece of tape on the crutch tip and off it came. Of course I turned it counter clockwise too, I think that helped. Don't know where I read that left hand thread thing. But after checking the counter I still can't get it to work. The dial is free but won't advance with crank. Also discovered the exposure/shutter lock does not work. Could these be related? Thanks for any help. Dennis |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 03, 2005 - 04:07 am: |
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I don't thing that both faults are related. I think Rick has posted something on his very helpful site to fix the latter problem. In some cases just the over/underexposure catch needs minor rebending. This is a bit critical since it comes quite close to the latching point in normal operation. You will have to remove the cover plate on the release side to see the mechanism.
Returning to your first problem, almost all frame counters have a ratchet wheel (with saw teeth) and two detent levers. One is moved together with the crank and pressed against the wheel by a hairspring. It will advance the counter disk when it moves forward. To keep the counter disk from moving backward again there should be another detent, also held by a hairspring. If any of these springs is out of place or one of the bearings is corroded the thing does not work.
Both detents are lifted when the rear door is open. Check if they come close to the ratchet wheel when the door is closed, and rebend if necessary. |
Dennis Smith
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 03, 2005 - 09:11 pm: |
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Thanks all. Winfried, I'll try that tomorrow. We'll get it 100% yet! Thanks , Dennis Smith |
