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CJ
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 02:46 am: | 
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Hi All,
Three weeks and almost 1 bottle of Ronsonol later, my Konica S2 with sticking & stuck shutter and aperture blades only shows a modest improvement. The shutter fires now, but the aperture blades are still uncooperative: When set at f/1.8, for example, the shutter will fire, the aperture opens up and does NOT close down again: The rear lens element is still visible.
If I squirt more Ronsonol in there, the aperture and shutter will close again.
In other words, when the Ronsonol dries, I'm essentially back to square one.
What am I doing wrong here? Do I need to pour the naptha into a cup or something, and position the camera lens down, so that the blades are completely immersed in the liquid?
Barring that, should I keep squirting the Ronsonol in, fire the shutter a few times, then add the step of blowing the blades out with canned air?
It seems like I'm just moving the old lubrication around, but not actually removing it.
-CJ |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 04:06 am: |
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Squirting a mechanism with solvent will mostly distribute the greasy gunk but not remove it.
In other words, I think it would be the best to disassemble the lens barrel and take off the aperture module. Then disassemble it and clean the aperture blades with lighter fluid.
The Konica Auto-S/S2 are well-known for aperture problems, fortunately I had an aperture module to swap. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 04:24 am: |
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Hi, CJ, I once encountered the same problem and I was only able to solve it after completely stripping down everything, then taking out the shutter assembly as a whole (leave the wires where/as they are) and immersing it completely in lighter fluid (use a transparent plastic container, shake well for several minutes in several baths, in the end the liquid has to be free of particles. Regreasing major pivots is possible, but not really necessary, the mechanism won't wear out before the end of your life.) The spring operating the aperture blades is relatively weak and there is a lot of metal to be moved by it, so the blades have to be clinically clean. Do NOT repeat not replace the spring by a stronger one, as this will have neative effects on the whole auto mechanism. The pictures you probably need for your operation can be found on Mick Feuerbacher's camera section on his homepage, and also on the Japanese Family Camera weblog or Daniel Mitchell's super homepage. |
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